the tom and nancy roadshow ...

Is it Fall already?

2011-11-19T22:16:00.000-08:00

Where does the time go. Last time I looked it was April. And now it's November and we're still back at our new RV lot here in sunny southern California, land of swimming pools, movie stars and a whole lot more. It's hard to beat the comforts of heated pools, tennis courts and good walking areas here at Glen Eden Sun Club especially with Trader Joes just up the road. We've enjoyed a great time this many months rediscovering the joys of digging in the dirt and talking plants. Tom completed a 10 month Master Gardener training program with the UC Riverside Coop Extension in June and is now "certified" for whatever that means; like his Master Composter designation from a few years ago, piled high and heated up. Nancy thinks it's just one more proof of him being "certifiable". Our arrival back in April was met with feverish push to transplant the many seedling starts we'd grown from seed in the motorhome. The garden beds needed completion, the fence needed extending, the shed needed moving, the esaplier fruit trees needed wires, as did the grapes, the shed needed a workbench...you get the picture. It's been fun. I've also gotten to know the area better through volunteering with Master Gardeners at the UCRiverside Botanical Gardens, the GrowLab, many "Meet&Greet" community information tables at nurseries, garden tours public events. Tom managed a couple of short camping trips with one up the coast near Malibu and the other in the Santa Ana mountains west of Lake Elsinore. It's surprising how remote and beautiful a lot of southern CA can be, and yet within a few miles are all the trappings of freeways and people. We try to imagine the beauty of the lands here before being discovered by so many people seeking a mild, Mediterranean climate with ocean, mountains and desert so near.

We've also made good use of our time and are now trying on clothes that only a few months ago were way too tight...I've followed the progress of Ms. Nancy who has lost over 40 lbs during these few months and me along for the ride. Quite an accomplishment for her, and good luck for me.
Looks like we'll be around here until the 20th of December when we will shove off on our first cruise through the Panama Canal and on to Miami and visit with son, William. This will be a special birthday for Ms Nancy on Christmas day and our 32nd aniversary on the winter solstice! More at that time.

Welcome to spring in the desert...

2011-04-16T18:20:00.000-07:00

Just one week ago we were in Globe, AZ watching the large snowflakes and the feel the 37F. with the nearby hillsides white! Today we're in Indio, CA and parked behind the Fantasy Springs Casino at 103.5F trying to find a bit of coolness on the shady side of the motorhome. We just left our friends' drive in Scottsdale after Ms. Nancy got in one more swim in 70F water, refreshed and ready to travel, even if she didn't think her evening would be this warm.
These past few weeks have taken us through southern Arizona, from when we last left Ajo through to Tucson, the ranch and grasslands of Southern AZ along the Mexican border, the Huachuca mountains, the copper mining district and funky town of Bisbee, the Chiracahua National Monument and now Safford and Globe along the "old west highway" on to Phoenix. We've never been travelers to back track, so all our routes tend to be nice loops and this one should take us back to SoCal and Glen Eden.
By way of overview (and photos) we had a wonderful time with some of our oldest friends from our early RVing days and exploring a new region. We enjoyed good weather, until now, good food including Ethiopian, vegetarian, different quality of Mexican and middle eastern, and even a good steak house. Nancy got some much needed pool time while in Tucson. While there, Tom, dropped and broke his 6year+ camera while on a bicycle ride and was really bummed out. Laundry got done, and new sites were visited and old ones revisited. We got back to the Sonoran Desert Museum, a landmark in the Tucson area, with our friend Deanna. Wildflowers were somewhat scarce this year due to poor winter rains in the area. Sierra Vista was a great location to explore the popular birding spots of Ramsey Canyon and the San Pedro Riparian area which was one of the busiest for migrating hummers and other species between the Rio Grande and the Colorado Rivers. Water is a real treat in the desert, and even the grasslands of southern AZ We explored nearby Fort Huachuca, home of the famous all black cavalry units or "Buffalo Soldiers" of the 19th and early 20th century. They were renowned as talented and hard fighting in the Indian wars against the Apache who were the main obstacle to travel and settlement of this area, and later went on to valor in WWI and WWII. More recently the Fort has become the center of advanced communications as an outgrowth of the US Army Signal Corps. It's an active post and is the primary support in the community.
We were also able to visit the nearby copper mining town of Bisbee. Now rediscovered as a funky and artsy tourist area after years of decline from when the mines closed and converted the labor intensive underground & hard rock mining for the energy and capital equipment intensive open pit mining. We did take in an underground tour of the Copper Queen Mine complete with hardhats, lights and rainslickers...enhances the tourist experience I guess. Interesting history, too, of diversity and labor protest in early part of 20th century, as well. One of the first mass deportations in US history occurred here in 1917 with roundup of hundreds of striking miners and their "removal" to New Mexico.
After a week in the area we decided it was time to move along to the rest of our winter travel route and to the Chiracahua National Monument. We (at least one of us) have always wanted to explore these mountains and former lands of the Chiracahua Apache. The "HooDoos" or rock formations are the result of wind and water erosion acting on the 2000feet of rhyolite laid down by the TurkeyCreek volcano over 25million years ago. It's a beautiful area with lots of trails and hideaways in the rocks, surrounded by high country grasslands and oak-juniper forest lands of the Coronado National Forest. We thoroughly enjoyed our short time here. After that we traveled north through Willcox and along the "old west highway" through Safford, San Carlos, Globe and Superior ending at Apache Junction after a brief visit to the Boyce Thompson Arboretum and a tour of spring flowers and wonderful desert landscaped exhibits.

We finished our tour in Phoenix area enjoying visits and food with friends along the street in Chandler and in the drive of friends in Scottsdale. And now it's time to head west and back to our SoCal homespace. Our garden seeds have grown to healthy seedlings and are ready to be planted..our first return to gardening in over 18 years! We rigged a simple rack to hold the seedlings in our shower under the skylight and they grew wonderfully. We're now considering using it for other plantings throughout the summer months since the light is so good, and it's relatively insulated from temperature swings. Just another adaptation to life on the road. That's it for this installment. We're headed back to where diesel prices are above $4.50/gallon so our summer travel plans are really uncertain at this time. Stay tuned for more...happy trails.

Back to Arizona again

2011-03-06T17:06:00.000-08:00

Well, it's been some time since the rains and cold of southern California. Now that spring is upon us in the Sonoran desert, it's easy to see why we needed to get out some and travel to our "places of the heart" again. In our many years traveling we've coined this term to note as special some of the places we've been and connected, with the people, the land or the activity. As we've begin to slow and limit our trajectory, we try to maintain these special visits and hope to maintain them as long as we can...and still find time and energy for discovering new friends and places. Even though we've landed in a wonderful place like Glen Eden, we still love this RVing life and the opportunities it affords us. Seems, too, whenever we encounter settled folks, it's hard to avoid becoming territorial and getting involved in the daily politics of living. This lifestyle affords us a better balance.

We missed the annual RV gatherings at Quartzsite again this year due to illness...ours. The crud we contracted from Las Vegas came back again with a vengeance. We did get to Yuma for a few weeks of desert peace and quiet and warmer temps. We also managed our annual dental checkups in Los Algodones, Baja CA, Mexico...and we're happy to report that the teeth are holding up better than the rest of us. We met up with old RVing friends (and they are getting older, too:) and enjoyed catching up on life over the past year, our travels and trials, along with the requisite visit to favorite restaurants, flea markets and sights around the Yuma area. Great place to spend the winter as many snow birds in their RVs from Canada and the US have found. I believe there are over 50 RV parks just in the Yuma area alone. All types of new services and traffic have been added, along with the regular agricultural schedule. Yuma this time of year is the lettuce bowl for much of the country, and also grows broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower. All kinds of citrus and dates are grown in the area, as well. And you can't beat a date milk shake...alas, I must limit myself to only 1 per season, as I could easily get out of control.

We've since moved on to another favorite area in the Sonoran desert near the former copper mining town of Ajo, on the road from Phoenix to Puerto Penasco, Mexico and the Gulf of California. We're actually less than 20 miles from the border here, just north of Organ Pipe National Monument, and just south of the Barry Goldwater live fire gunnery range! It's a quiet place of saguaro cactus, creosote bushes and wide open skies. We've been coming here for years and never seem to tire of it's calmness and beauty. That, in spite of the active border crossing and smuggling route this continues to be, but we've been fortunate to not have any adverse consequences in all our time here. Homeland Security in the form of US Border Service is very visible in town and on the many dirt roads in this wide open area. Since the closure of the open pit copper mine here in the 1980s Ajo has had a hard row to hoe, but renewed interest in "national security" along with continuation of the war on drugs, the low cost housing which has encouraged new migrants from the north in the form of "Q" tips (senior citizens) and artists to take up residence. A more recent boon to the area is a 4.5megawatt solar electric generating array located on mining property on the southside of town. This grid enhancement will provide power to over 1000 homes throughout the region, and a few more jobs in Ajo. "Where", according to the latest promotional brochure for the area, the "summer spends the winter".

Looking to move along to the Desert Rain Cafe in Sells, AZ for a lunch of homemade TohonoO'Odam (Pima) treats and on to Tucson and southeast Arizona... Happy trails...

Welcome to our new year!

2011-01-23T21:05:00.000-08:00

We arrived back at our lot amidst a 7 day rain cycle that finally broke at Christmas. And they say it never rains in sunny California. Not that we're complaining because it's a desert here and water is a real necessity and a treat, too, and not the daily gray grind of NE PA that we left so many years ago. But enough rain is a few inches. Nearly 20 inches in fewer days is more than this parched SoCal could well accommodate! In fact, here's a few pics. The traditional channel/creek through the park became clogged with debris and it remembered it's own pre-RV park route, through our yard and our neighbors'. We didn't have any memory, but nature and a few of our older neighbors did and now,so do we! Little actual damage occurred, but a lot of mud and debris went where it wasn't wanted, and had to be removed, replaced and refilled. So for the next weeks that became the order of the day. Add to this the return of the "Vegas Crud" we had picked up while enjoying the Penn & Teller, the bright lights and food in Las Vegas and another couple of weeks were lost to misery and a sore head, nose, chest etc. But we made it through Christmas and New Years!

One of the benefits of settling somewhere with a few square feet of dirt is that Tom has rekindled his gardening interest. Since October he is a "Master Gardener in Training" with UC Riverside Cooperative Extension. While in town he attends classes in person, and when not, he reads and follows classes online via our satellite internet connection. This training will now be added to his already distinct title of "Master Composter" that he earned in 2008 with the Riverside County Waste Management. He even has a T-Shirt that says so!

He's already enjoyed getting pricked and cut learning to prune roses at the UCR Botanical gardens. By the way, the first rule is never where shorts, sandals and a Tshirt to a full scale rose pruning!

He's also had a day at an olive ranch where they are growing olives and pressing oil. Actually the RV park where we have the lot, Glen Eden, used to be an Olive ranch where there are still many huge, shapely and prolific olive trees. (and olives smushed all around....next year some curing and pressing is going to happen!)

Well, it's almost 1 February and should be time to be in Quartzsite, but looks like we'll stick around here to help with community garden, our site projects including finishing irrigation for our new apple, plum, pluot and nectarine trees and 2 grape vines, along with helping out and visiting mother in a not too distant nursing home. It's comfortable here, but really time to be moving along. Yuma and the desert are calling. Happy trails until real soon (we hope)

And to the other side of Death Valley

2010-12-21T11:27:00.000-08:00

We've now arrived back at our lot in SoCal, just south of Corona and are "enjoying" the rains, 4 days and it's still coming down. A wonderful treat for the dry southwestern deserts, but not too great for areas scarred by the summer wildfires. Fortunately, we're only inconvenienced by a few roads closed by seasonal high water.

Before we came south last Friday, we managed another side trip 180 miles across Death Valley National Park to the Owen's Valley and to the Lone Pine and Independence areas along the eastern Sierra mountains. We enjoyed sunny and cold weather, snow on the peaks but none of the notorious winds usually so prevalent. One of our interests was to visit the Mazanar Internment/Concentration Camp which was now a national park. This camp was one of 10 that was used to "intern" Japanese-Americans during WWII. At it's peak Mazanar was designed to hold 10,000 men, women and children from the coastal areas of southern and central CA. The exhibits and buildings showed a stark world brought to life by the internees on this windswept valley. It also showed an hysterical and prejudiced nation which felt it necessary to "protect" itself from these people, many fellow US citizens. It also showed examples of many Americans who supported their Nissei friends and looked after their properties until the internment was over. Overall it was a very sobering experience. And quite chilling as well to read newspaper columns and opinions from then which can almost be seen today by simply substituting "Muslim" for "Japanese". But we have come some way since then, there are no more Mazanars being built, though Guantamo Bay may come close.

Later we went on up to Independence and the Museum of the Eastern Sierras. There we enjoyed the excellent collections of the historical society on the history and peoples of the Owens Valley, the controversial takeover/theft of the Owens River and Lake systems by the LosAngeles
Power and Water District in the early part of the 20th century and an incredible collection of over 400 baskets by the Piute and Shoshone. All manner of burden, storage and fancy baskets were on display. Very definitely worth the visit. ( (Monument Inscription at Mazanar cemetery: the "Soul Consoling Tower")

Our last stop in the area for this trip, was the Alabama Hills. A wide open geological tumble of granite at the base of the sierras which was the site of over 300 films, and most all of the early westerns from Republic Studios. You know, the ones we watched faithfully on Saturdays with Roy Rogers, Gene Autry and the rest. A lot of the early John Wayne movies, along with classics like High Sierra with Bogart and Gungha Din with Cary Grant were also set there. A relatively close 4 hours from Hollywood and a world apart it made for a great backdrop...and we enjoyed the views. Happy trails and Happy Holidays wherever you roam.

Las Vegas side trip

2010-12-15T21:38:00.000-08:00

We've had a wonderful stay here in Tecopa, as you've probably noted by our absence from these pages. Not only have we enjoyed the hot baths, the quiet sounds of the desert, the deep, dark night skies, but also a few diversions to other places. We spent a couple of days haunting thrift stores, Ethiopian restaurants, the Rio Night Club and Casino and even a pawn shop in LasVegas. It was the Gold and Silver Pawn Shop on Las Vegas Blvd. made famous by the History Channel show, Pawn Stars. The only "stars" we noticed were on the door along with the hundreds of other gawkers like us seeking a view of Chumley and the crew. We also managed a genuine LasVegas "magic show" with Penn and Teller at the Rio. Amazing! is all I can say. Sleight of hand and mind taken to incredible ends. We also enjoyed a photo op at the Belagio as a Christmas treat while they assembled the Conservatory Christmas themed show. More interesting to see how they build the set, assemble the props and maneuver the materials around. In spite of the wonderful time, we also managed to bring back our first serious cold in over 5 years. Laid us both right out with cough, head and chest congestion and just plain yuk. We're finally on the mend, but it's slow and brings back the old meaning of the word "hacking".

That's it for tonight. Hope you're enjoying the season wherever you are.

Christmas Setup at the Belagio Casino, Las Vegas, Nevada

On the road to Tecopa

2010-12-05T20:41:00.000-08:00

Well we finally moved along from the lot and projects at Glen Eden after a month plus of delays and just "one more project". It wasn't until a week before Thanksgiving that we actually started the engine and turned our gazes to I-15 and 4 hours north to Tecopa, CA, just 50 miles north of Baker along a scenic secondary backroad route to Las Vegas and also Death Vally National Park. This is a favorite desert hot spring village we've been visiting regularly since our first trip here in 1995. We spent Thanksgiving with other desert dwellers at the local Community center and managed to soak daily in the famous Tecopa hot baths. Weather has been cooler than normal and winds have been more prevalent than we remember...something that gets your attention when the RV is rocked and buffeted by 25 mph winds first from the southwest, then from the north. But, it's part of the experience.
Tom managed a couple of hikes with the local Conservancy. One to an old gold mining area at Salt Creek and another was along the Amargosa River, recently granted a Wild and Scenic River designation. For those of us from the east, our picture of a wild river is a lot different than here in the desert southwest, though in times of heavy summer rains, wild is a mild term, torrential is often more appropriate. But for the most part this "river" is more like a small creek by our eastern experience. Yet, it is a lifeline for desert flora and fauna. But like much of the west, it's being choked by the invasion of the Salt Cedar or Tamarisk, a bush like tree imported from the Near East at the turn of the 20th century for erosion control. The dark side of this salt tolerant plant is that it outcompetes and displaces native plants such as the willow and cottonwood and draws a lot more of the precious water, many times drying up riparian areas. Efforts are underway in many areas including the Amargosa to eradicate the plant, but it is wildly successful adapter, tenacious and expensive to accomplish. Many local groups such as the Conservancy are working with and "pushing" the BLM (Bureau of Land Management) to continue the eradication efforts before it is too late or too overwelming. Hope to be here for a few more weeks. Will post some more from Las Vegas and elsewhere in the region. Sunshine and warmer temps have returned. Even some rain last night! Great...until next time.

All's well in SoCal still...

2010-09-12T21:13:00.000-07:00

(Our first project: an urbanite (broken up concrete) drive extension for parking the rig and staining the entire patio area-a lot more work than originally thought!)
Greetings!
Well, we're still sitting and building out our first bit of homespace after 18 years traveling. It's been surprising to sit this long but it's been mild summer here at Glen Eden near Corona, CA and the price is right. It's also to make up for our carbon kharma from last year's cross country jaunt. Plus, it's fun to build and garden again after so many years.
Below is our 2nd major project, a 40' redwood fence complete with 2 coats of water-based stain! Another project easier designed than built. Engineering, technical and construction help provided by our good friend Mike Nash from Arizona. Plan is to use the fence as support for CA natives and espaliered fruit trees while adding raised beds in front and round the back. Compost pile is working overtime with the over 40 pounds weekly of cafe contributions (vege trimmings from the on grounds restaurant). To date we've processed, composted and diverted over 800 pounds of green waste and made some good organic matter to amend the DG (decomposed granite) "soil". We've also been working with the club to distribute the many years' accumulation of mulch around to the many landscaped areas on grounds.

Nancy continues her routine with the pool every morning as she can find quiet and space. Weekends are especially busy, but the weekdays bring her calm and a meditative pace. Have enjoyed weekly visits with my mother at her nursing home in Loma Linda. We usually find time to go out to her favorite restaurants, like the IHOP or Marie Callendars. And of recent we've been enjoying old movies from the 30's...the Thin Man series was a popular one for both of us.

It's hard to believe we've past Labor Day already. I even got around to tilting our solar modules recently realizing that the sun is heading south (metaphorically speaking). The temps are still pretty warm here and the SantaAna winds haven't arrived yet (the annual hot winds from the desert); nor has any rain since April. Luckily the native plants have adapted to this condition. Not sure we have yet. Fresh water is still a commodity too often taken for granted, here and probably everywhere. Happy trails for now. Keep in touch...

Southern California again and at long last...

2010-05-14T21:36:00.000-07:00

Blame it on Facebook or blame it on the sunshine, blue skies and "the weather", but in any case, we've been absent from these pages for over a month. Nancy says it should be a little update more often. For me, it's a grand narrative when the spirit moves or when times change. But now, after 3 weeks settled in on our lot at Glen Eden near Corona, CA it's time to provide the "little update". After Tucson it was Phoenix/Scottsdale and friends. Then we moved the show on to Prescott for another week of reconnecting, hikes in the Ponderosa pines of the central highlands. Then, it was across the western desert and the Colorado to the familiar and the family in Southern California.

Tom's mom is doing well and was anxious and relieved to have the wanderers back in the area. Same for sister who values the backup and extra help with visits, doctor's appointments and just being here.

As for activities, it's fun to get reconnected here with lot projects here on our new site, backyard composting with Riverside County, gardening next door at Glen Ivy Farms while Nancy finds relief and strengthening from daily "hydrotherapy sessions" at the heated pool.

No pictures today...the blog isn't uploading. More next time...Happy trails!

Tucson in the springtime

2010-03-31T22:17:00.000-07:00

Greetings from another of our favorite winter stops, Tucson, AZ. We're enjoying the warmth and breezes of springtime in the desert. The flowers have been really great this year. The roadside from Ajo, across the Tohono O'odham Nation (formerly known as the Papago, or desert Pima Indians) was carpeted with orange and yellow poppies. We stopped over in Sells, AZ for lunch at the Desert Rain Cafe, a restaurant specializing in traditional foods ofthe Tohono O'odham people. Dishes include tepary beans, agave sweeteners, saguaro syrup, cholla cactus buds, prickly pear cactus jellies. We had a wonderful lunch and wandered down the road to the recently finished Cultural Center and Museum. The cultural center included exhibits on traditional and contemporary life of the People of the Desert. We noted that their nation is divided by the international border between the US and Mexico. Before 9/11 it was quite easy for tribal members to cross back and forth, since it was their own lands. But ever since it has become a nightmare with new border security and the atmosphere of distrust and danger as these lands are also remote and favored by human and drug smugglers making them a prime focus of Homeland Security efforts to seal the border. These people are again caught in the middle.

Here in Tucson, the smell of orange blossoms is everywhere or at least in the residential neighborhoods where I ride my bike. We've settled into a mobile home park in the central part of the city, close to lots of great sites and restaurants, yet in a quiet, older neighborhood I get to ride my bike along some very well marked and relatively safe trails through the city. We've enjoyed some hikes, restocking our natural foods and pantry at Trader Joes and Sunflower Markets, outdoor festivals and of course sampling some of the many wonderful ethnic restaurants. In fact, Tom took an afternoon cooking class which resulted in a wonderful meal of Oaxacan Black Mole with rice, fried bananas, chayote (a mild summer-type squash),a good wine and a shot of tequila!

Another afternoon was spent listening to music provided by various local bands all powered by the sunshine via a portable solar electric system. Tucson is a very energy aware town with lots of programs and focus on energy efficiency, solar electricity and water heating systems, and the value of water and water conservation in the desert.

Although this represents the values of the 21st century Tucson, we also had an opportunity to view all around us here evidence of the area from the 18th century with historic adobe buildings including the church and convent at San Xavier de Bac, just southwest of the city limits on the eastern edge of the Tohono O'odham nation. This church as recently completed a major restoration of the interior to when it was constructed by the Jesuits and Indians in the early 1700s when this area was still claimed by Spain.

There's so much to enjoy and savor here in the area, and the weather has been fantastic. But, our time is coming to an end here and we expect to be moving along this weekend towards a visit with friends in the Phoenix area. We'll miss our friends here, and will look forward to return in another year to explore additional parts of the city and the region. Until next time, happy trails....

Alive and well in Ajo

2010-03-15T16:05:00.000-07:00

We've spent a glorious couple of weeks in the heart of the Sonoran Desert, just the two of us with the Saguaro, hummingbirds, gila woodpeckers and ravens along with the howls and yips of the coyote family that lives near where we're parked. The weather has been chilly in the evenings, with spectacular milky way views at night, and near cloudless deep blue skies daily. A bit of wind and rain greeted us in our first few days, but that gave way to springtime. As daily temps rise, we're seeing the Ajo Lilies begin to pick up growth, but we're afraid there won't be blooms until after we leave.
But we've rested and enjoyed near perfect silence here. An occasional fly by of the A-10s from Tucson en route to gunnery practice was the only "civilized" sound heard. It's remarkable the sounds of breezes through the saguaros and palo verdes as the many branches or needles create a soft whistle almost. With the extra solar modules and system rewire, we're enjoying more solar gain along with clear skies and have been a little less restrictive of our internet and digital entertainment. Nancy has been really getting a charge off working with Amazon's "Mechanical Turk". Most recently she's been troubleshooting customer service issues with a fellow in HongKong who's assessing the performance of the automated bus information for the Pittsburgh PA public transportation authority. All while sitting in the middle of the desert with solar electricity and a satellite internet connection! Que mundo! What a world!

Anyway, time to shuffle along. Hope to get to Tucson by Thursday via the TohonoO'dom reservation and a hoped for native meal and visit to their new cultural center. More later...

Pictures: From top left: 1-our little home in the saguaros, 2. Ocotillo in bloom, 3. Organ Pipe cactus view to southwest, 4. Our nearest neighbors at Tohono Oodum cemetery, 5. Our solar array and internet connection satellite dish. We now have 590 nominal watts of modules...enough for now!

After visit to the "center of the world", what's next?

2010-03-04T21:23:00.000-08:00

Recently enjoyed an afternoon in Felicity, CA, a roadside stop just west of Yuma on I-8. For years I've driven by and was always going to stop. And this year I did. Here was the self-described and promoted Center of the World, with a brass plaque in the floor (just over my right shoulder), beneath the apex of a pyramid. This spot is also to contain the "history of humanity" carved in granite for the millenia. (www.felicity.us) This project was the dream construction of a Jacques-Andre Istel, a Franco-American who reportedly finances and directs the work from successful businesses in the early recreational parachute industry. Little information about the background of the project was readily available, but it was a pleasant afternoon to walk around the grounds angling for photos and inspiration. It was a beautiful day in February without need of overcoat or other special preparations. The work is extensive. Two engravers were at work on the granite slabs drawing and printing parts of the narrative. There are also panels dedicated to both California, Arizona, the history of the French Foreign Legion, the solar system, medicine and the sciences and many other topics. Rather eclectic but I guess that's his right to include what he wants.

We've enjoyed our longer than anticipated stay here. Working for StarlightSolar was intense but very enjoyable and it proved a great opportunity to become more uptodate on the latest equipment and installation techniques for battery-based RV systems and to get better acquainted with Larry and Deb Crutcher, the owners. We even added an additional 130watt module to our roof and rewired the setup to cut out the long wire runs and make the system more efficient, and powerful. We now have 590 nominal watts of solar, and will see how we fare...we didn't really have any problems before, but the price on solar modules is pretty low, so now was the time at just under $4.00/watt cost. We're looking at this as a real possibility for next season for an even longer term in the winter

But our part of the solar sales season is at an end for this year. We're off on Friday for Ajo, AZ and then on to Tucson, or at least that is the plan for now...Happy trails

From "where the sun spends the winter", Yuma, AZ

2010-02-10T21:48:00.000-08:00

Los Algodones, Mexico streets and signage for dentists and pharmacies

(On our way in, the grey hairs walking to the border...convenient parking on US side provides easy access but ever since the heightened US security efforts, the return walk especially after lunch has increased to at least 1.5 hours in line...guess the drug prescription coverage is lacking and medicare doesn't cover dental work, so we cross over to exploit the cost difference, while the "illegal" immigrant crosses over to exploit the wage difference.)

Arrived a couple of weeks ago to this historic town along the Colorado River. It's lettuce and brocoli and citrus harvest season and the fields are ripe and full of pickers, the roads are full of field transport trucks and the cooling and storage facilities are operating on overtime. We have enjoyed good weather, mild rains and good times with some RVing friends of many years. This area has appealed to many as a "settle in" kind of place, seasonally friendly especially from this years weather woes, with lots of RV parking either out in the public BLM lands around the town, or in the many RV and mobile home parks. We've completed our several visits to Los Algodones, BC, Mexico, the small border town noted for it's dentists and pharmacies. By the way, these aren't being supported by the Mexican nationals, but by the grey hairs from the US and Canada, looking for the prescription drugs and dentures (crowns, implants etc) along with the "authentic" Mexican experience of a margarita with a lunch plate of tacos and beans, then standing for an hour or more waiting to walk back in to US through the newly upgraded border and customs station.

We've decided to stay longer in the Yuma area, largely because Tom will be working and helping out friends in their RV solar electric business. This is high season and they're swamped selling solar modules, system components and installations along with sharing lots of information and advice. It's already appearing as lots of fun and a good way to stay current in an exciting and fast changing industry. Technology has moved along significantly and costs have come down as late as the solar photovoltaic industry ramps up capacity worldwide, and the recession of the same dimensions has dampened demand most recently. This is a great time to invest in the solar modules and systems!

Happy trails and until later...

Now that was a rain!

2010-01-22T21:06:00.001-08:00

Thought we had returned to NE Pennsylvania this past week. The rain, cold temps for here (in 40s) and grey skies certainly made it feel like our old home place. The winds were out of place as these howlers came down the canyons and 50+mph gusts were certainly a change. Had snow all over the SanBernardino mountains with many areas closed due to 4'+ of new snow in just a few days. Needless to say we've had to resort to our generator as the solar modules couldn't keep up with the nearly opaque skies. Of course our electrical usage was only marginally impacted since we knew the propane tank was full and the generator needed to be "exercised". Our plans to leave for the desert and friends got sidetracked as the weather was to be the same or worse, and out there, near Quartzsite, AZ, there wasn't any hot tub, heated pool, showers or Barnes and Noble. SO, we suffered a bit longer here.

(After the rains, this morning our first day of sun in over 5 days! Tough once you're used to it)

We did have a leak, our first in many years and the worst ever in the motorhome and of course while the rains poured it was hard to find the source...maybe when we get a bit dried out we'll have better luck. It flooded the passenger front seat floor, but not the walls or ceiling. Suspect it to be in the window frame. Will have to pull up carpet to get it dry, too. Not looking forward to this. But, grateful that we had our larder full and thankful for the fresh picked Navel oranges from next door at Glen Ivy hot springs. It's nice having the farm and orchard just 2 miles away, and Trader Joes just 5...

We finally got everything together by 3pm to leave today, Saturday, bound for Yuma and the dentist in Los Algodones, BC, Mexico. Don't really know why it took so long, but managed a nice hike over the hill along USFS property overlooking our little canyon. Enjoyed the smells that fresh rains bring to these normally dry areas. Noticed a dusting of snow on the nearby Santa Ana range and a lot of sheet erosion, but not enough to spoil the walk. Said goodbye to the folks here. BTW, we bought a lot here and look forward to spending more time in the sunshine and in SoCal in the future. Not enough to stop traveling, but enough to have a place to clean out the basement and leave a bunch of stuff we carry but don't use much. Also, a regular place for Ms. Nancy to get her much needed swimming exercise. And, there will be lots of garden and building to keep me busy, too.

We made it to Indio tonight and are enjoying the freeway sounds along I-10 at the scenic parking lot of the Spotlight 29 Casino. Bobby Vinton is playing tonight and we don't have any tickets. And so it goes. Tomorrow on to Yuma...

It might be rain

2010-01-15T22:06:00.000-08:00

Greetings from the Inland Empire of SoCal, along I-15 between Corona and Lake Elsinore...
We've been having great sunshine and warm temps for the past couple of weeks. I've enjoyed time gardening and playing in the dirt next door at the Glen Ivy Hot Springs. The garden is operated for the benefit of the religious community there who value organic, home/locally grown fruits and vegetables. They have over 18 acres in grapefruit, avocado, orange and vegetables. It's a real treat to be able to help out and enjoy eating such wonderful produce and fruits. Especially this fresh in the middle of winter. It's one activity that I sorely have missed in our on-the-road life these many years. This opportunity to volunteer and help out in exchange for produce is the next best thing to our own garden, without all the inventory and costs.

Rains are coming so looks like we'll sit tight and hope they pass soon enough for us to move along to Quartzsite and then on to Yuma for our annual dental visit. We do hope to make it to Q, but know the area to be pretty miserable and muddy after serious rains as are forecast for our first of the season El Nino event. Stay tuned for more...

A blue moon new year's wish

2009-12-31T22:24:00.000-08:00

Greetings from clear and chilly SoCal...as we approach the arrival of 2010 we're fading in resolve to see the new year in. Music from a live band can be heard nearby but without tickets, there's no entry for us. No matter, this park and it's trails, pools and hot tub have been restful after our long trip west. We can do without the dancing tonight, and we may even stay up long enough to hear the shouts and cheers for the new year. And if not, we'll still have our resolutions for the new year and decade tomorrow morning. More music, movies and mindless fun for 2010...at least for me as I leave my 50's. More serious resolutions are also on the list, too. Now to see how to make it happen...our best to all for a happy, prosperous and fulfilling new year.

What happened to Christmas

2009-12-28T21:13:00.000-08:00

Well, we did make it all the way to southern CA for the holidays. Had an extra day between Phoenix and Yucaipa due to a wind/sandstorm that hit us at the Colorado River. We decided to pull over in scenic Desert Center for the evening to let it pass. We still had a head wind the next day but without the sand and visability issues. Great as always to see the wind turbines through Banning Pass just west of Palm Springs dancing in the breeze.

Arrived at my sister's house and settled in to getting ready for the holidays. Went to bed early to be ready for Christmas Eve and finalizing gifts, wrappings and arrangements. We did a big dinner out at my mom's favorite restaurant, Marie Callendars and we all went home stuffed and contented. Around 5am my stuffed contentment became too much to contain and full scale stomach flu-virus erupted! What a day, Christmas Day, my memories are dim. I recall up close and personal with every toilet in the area right on through the evening. Had no stomach for food and only by 6pm was I able to take in some peppermint tea. Any semblance of appetite didn't return until Sunday, and even then only mildly so. It was a postcard Christmas dinner with the turkey, ham, cranberries, yams, etc and "auntie" Linda's trifle. (Bro-inlaw Bruce's sister). I could only look at the food and plates all set, smell briefly and quickly exit the room...but life got better on Saturday, a little, and Sunday pretty much back to normal. But, my sweetie, Ms. Nancy, now had the virus full force and was suffering equally with the same symptoms. Poor Baby...So we continue to improve and will again soon be out and about. Happy trails and Happy New Year!

Happy winter solstice

2009-12-21T22:46:00.000-08:00

(Shaman's Eye, Mojave National Preserve, near winter solstice, 2008; photo by R. Taley)

Holiday Greetings!
We arrived well after finishing the trip through ElPaso, LasCruces, NM, Willcox and Chandler. We're enjoying friends and the big city with it's Barnes & Nobles, used bookstores and last minute gift temptations. We've enjoyed our time here but looking to move along to SoCal for the holidays. Today we celebrated our 30th anniversary with day out. Last night we enjoyed a wonderful dinner with friends at our favorite local restaurant near our friend's house in Scottsdale. Leaving in the morning for sister's family in Yucaipa, CA. Expecting some rain and clouds for the drive west..hope for a nice ride and not much headwind. Happy holidays...

(Below at the Carlsbad Restaurant for dinner on our anniversary)

Back in the 'hood

2009-12-16T22:34:00.000-08:00

We're still traveling but have made great progress and are now back in AZ, a lot longer a trip than we remember from May and a lot faster than we originally planned. That's 2400miles to date and another 400 to go. That's a lot of carbon kharma. Will have to sit tight awhile...but we wanted to make it to SoCal and Christmas with my 85 y.o. mother and baby sister and family. So...away we went. Rain and humidity all the way to SanAntonio area. Laid over 3 nights in Beaumont,TX due to winds, rain and fatigue. Managed a visit to Barnes and Noble, dinner out and then back on the road. Took the scenic lower US90 across Texas. BTW, it's still over 500miles across from SanAnto to El Paso in case you wondered.

(Our little home looking across West Texas; hard work for the Prius to push that big motorhome!)
Managed leisurely driving at average 6 hours/day and with motorhome that's plenty for us. Managed an overnight in Del Rio, TX and included a walk over the RioGrande river to Mexico for a reconnoiter and a few Rx drugs. Nothing like a walk over a long bridge and through a desperately poor town on a day of overcast and drizzle. Tourism was really down and a number of pharmacies and dentists office looked permanently closed and the "medical" tourism was down as well. Our economy may be in difficulty but theirs is in disaster.

Spent several nights parked along the roadside as it is acceptable to overnight in picnic and roadside rest areas out west, and very much UNlike in the east where only an RV park in authorized for overnights. We also stayed in Elks Lodge parking areas, Walmarts lots and in front of friends houses. Such is the nomads' life.

Went out with friends last night to Anti-Defamation League program on "Hate and Intolerance". Very interesting Independent Lens produced documentary on the history of Indian boarding schools and the prevalent philosophy of "killing the Indian and saving the man or woman". The efforts all appeared Christian-motivated and well-intentioned. There were many Native peoples in the audience who after the film, shared their personal experiences or those of their parents or grandparents. Quite a moving evening. What was most clear was the corruption of innocence, abuse and insensitivity
(Chihuahuan desert near Willcox, AZ-yuccas)

endured from otherwise well-meaning people. It was also clear that absent these type of people, the predominant national feeling was to simply "exterminate the savages". Their were a lot of tears and heartfelt hurt displayed. Also brought up was the parallels with attitudes today towards immigrants, Muslims, gays and other groups. Unfortunately there were only 50 to 75 people in attendance.

Will enjoy our time with friends in Phoenix area and head out soon for SoCal and family there. Happy trails.

(New tombstone for youngest of Earp Brothers who was reported to be a hot head and drunk who met his maker in Willcox, AZ after 1 bar fight too many)

Rolling through north Florida

2009-12-03T13:56:00.000-08:00

We made the departure and have logged nearly 500 miles so far. Our first day took us across the drained everglades and now sugar cane fields around the south and east ends of Lake Ockechobee. Many of these lands are scheduled to be removed from cane production and reverted to the flowing "river of grass". Today we drove through the citrus regions of central Florida and on into the pine forest regions of the north central region. We're in Perry, FL tonight along rte. 19 and home of the forest products industry based on the longleaf pine cultivation and processing. Spent the early part of last night fighting with my 9 year old printer which spilled ink everywhere, including the center of the bedspread! What a mess, including my hands and clothes. The printer has been banished to the basement, and may just have to go. Haven't exactly figured out what happened, but appears to be the overspray reservoir overflowed after all these years. Later, we had a fitful sleep waiting out a hard wind and rain which left our motorhome in a sea of water. Must say I was expecting to need a pullout this morning from the sandy soil where we were parked. But, sand also means good drainage, and no problems upon exit. Not much to say for my sleep deficit but hope for a more peaceful slumber tonight.

Forgot to mention the trip to the Florida Railroad Museum while in Miami. Enjoyed seeing the many displays of locomotives, Pullman sleeping cars, passenger cars and even FDR's own personal car.

This diesel locomotive ran the line originally through to Key West, and may have been on the line for the original "Orange Blossom Special."

As a sign of those times through the 1950's the second photo reminds us of the way it used to be in a significant part of the country. Seating, sleeping and eating arrangements were also "separate" and not equal...

Happy trails and hope to move along to Alabama tomorrow...

Ready to roll

2009-12-01T16:56:00.000-08:00

Yes, we're still here in Florida, but we've begun the departure process! Monday we filled our fresh water tank, dumped the other tanks, hooked up the tow dolly and Priscilla Prius, and headed out on the highway. At least for 100 miles, enough to get our road legs (and seats) ready for the 2800 mile west coast drive.

We managed to spend the last month in south Miami area enjoying morning calls from our neighbors at the MetroZoo next door. Most notable were the very loud cries from the howler monkeys. These loud calls took us back to the last time we had heard the howlers while we were traveling to the Mayan ruins of Yachitlan on the Mexican/Guatemalan border way back in 1990. We heard them but had never been able to see them "howling" until this visit to Miami...and here's the picture (and brief video if I can get it loaded It's sideways and I'm unable to rotate it so please bear with!) of the howler with the throat pouch expanded for the calls.

Our days were similar but rarely the same...save for visits to our regular "mataratos" (time spenders) at the local Barnes and Noble where a coffee/tea break could last for hours of reading the latest current events magazines. It answers our need for the familiar in the changing world of RV travel...all B&N are laid out the same, serve good coffee/tea and don't mind geezers and others taking up tablespace in the cafe. Plus, we always put our materials back on the shelves where they belong; a habit not universally shared.

We enjoyed the beach at Miami Beach where son Bill recently got an apartment. The ocean is a special place for us since we lived on the Pacific coast of Mexico for 2 years. It's something we miss in our desert southwest travels. This time of year the water was still in the 80's and extremely swimmable. Tom even managed a couple of scuba diving excursions off Key Largo in the National Marine Sanctuary. Nancy managed to enjoy her time reading, drinking iced tea and going along for the after-dive seafood dinner. The reefs at 25'-40' below were quite degraded but reef fish seemed abundant, even an occasional ray, nurse shark and barracuda made guest appearances.
(Cruise ships leave Miami harbor off Miami Beach)

Also spent a day exploring the nearby Everglades National Park...the "River of Grass" which flows from Lake Ockechobee 50 miles wide, a few feet deep and for 80 miles to Florida Bay and the Gulf of Mexico. The predominant vegetation appears to be sawgrass, a razor wiry sharp grass interspersed with hardwood hammocks of native mahogany and bald cypress. And, of course lots of water birds and the ubiquitous alligator. It was a wonderful day of sunshine and fleecy clouds, short, self guided hikes. This time Tom went solo as Nancy continues to convalesce from a torn achilles tendon and related conditions. Plus, she didn't want to be the mosquito trap she usually is in some place reknowned for flying pests such as these wetlands...even in the dry season. We find in our travels and with our close quarters that sometimes a day apart is a cherished event...especially when one likes to "see everything" and the other would like to "sit, relax and savor" especially with an iced tea and a good book.

Even with all this, our on the road life still requires trips to hardware stores for repair items, the grocery, Costco, as well as conducting general maintenance, washing the car/RV, doing the wash, sweeping and cleaning the homespace and just daily activities...we just feel so fortunate to do these tasks in different parts of the country with the opportunity to visit some great locations. Happy trails for now...off to central Florida and to the other end of the state...nearly 700 miles from Miami to Pensacola! At our rate that's a long drive and only the beginning. Happy trails from Loxahatchee!

Miami! We're Here

2009-11-02T20:05:00.001-08:00

(View of Miami downtown and Miami Beach in distance from causeway to Key Biscayne...great place to watch clouds and weather patterns)

Well, we've been here for awhile. Not sure where time went, but so have we as we've driven many times around the city, from our home in the county park in southwest part of city, to son Bill's apartment out on Miami Beach, to scuba diving off Key Largo and to several tasty Cuban, Haitian and other latin restaurants in between. It's surprising how great the weather is this time of year. We arrived 2 weeks ago to a real tropical
downpour, and that was about the last day of rain. Since then we've seen humidity and temps remain unseasonably high (88+F) but in the last couple of days, it finally looks like fall temps are returning, and the balance of our stay is moderating.

(Tomatoes for wintertime eastcoast eating in Homestead)

I guess dueling technologies are to blame for this belated update on our travels. We're also on Facebook and it appears quicker to add a line or two and a real time taker to read through all updates listed by friends from around the country than recall events and insights for the blog. In a sense we may be getting to the "Too much information" stage and need to withdraw from the wired/wireless world to regain time and perspective. I also just got a new laptop and have been dealing with the time consuming process of moving files. And, I'm now finding out too late, that many of my favorite programs from the mid 1990s will not operate on the new Win7/64 bit machine. I'm as yet unable to accept this reality. I will continue to look for work arounds and/or new and "free" programs like I've been using, until the inevitable "pay up to play" reality sinks in, and I break down or decide to do without. And that will depend on the $$ as always.

For those looking for information on solar electricity from our recent interview on RV Dream Radio, here's a few links to get you started: www.homepower.com, a good overall magazine and website with fundamentals of renewable energy written by and for the homeowner/DIY be it solar PV, thermal, wind, hydro, electric vehicle etc. A couple other sites specifically for RVs are: www.starlightsolar.com in Yuma, AZ and www.RVsolarelectric.com in Scottsdale, AZ. For those interested, we have a 4 part series of introductory solar articles we wrote for our RV club magazine a few years ago...if interested drop us an email and we'll send them along.

That's it for now. Happy trails...
Friends Mary and Elaine stopped by for a boomer visit and lunch before heading off on cruise to the Bahamas...Happy cruisin' folks!

It's finally Florida

2009-10-15T17:53:00.000-07:00

Arrived today amidst another rain, only this time it appeared more as steam. Humidity at 90+ and temps in low 80's. What happened to fall? Managed a long day of driving and following bikers en route to the BikerFest in Daytona Beach. No RV camping within 50miles so had to drive on. Presently near Titusville and Cape Canaveral area again after 350+ mile day. (That's a very long day for us RVers, especially when we have to start at the crack of 10am!) Arrived to set up and found our internet GPS system had failed so worked on work around for awhile and got it operational. Our satellite system is what keeps us connected, though I sometimes wonder at its cosmic worth...Took a walk and managed to step on some fire ants in the dark (and was bit several times before remembering where I was and what the pain might be from). AND, while the northeast is preparing for snow, it's back to air conditioning here as it feels like a fetid swamp. Hey, maybe that's what it really is.

On to Miami in the morning. Ah, family...

A rainy drive

2009-10-14T18:19:00.000-07:00

A long day in the driver's seat with rain an all day companion as we descended from the high western NC mountains to the near sea level along I-95 near St George, SC. We had a brief exploration of Spartanburg, SC when we spotted a COSTCO near the I-26 freeway. We saw an ramp exit close by but we took wrong turn and ended up miles away. Even stopped to ask directions, thought we were heading off right again when the fellow who helped (and who gave me a Jesus tape and prayed me well) out came flying by us in his pickup and signaled for us to follow. It appears he failed to tell us of a critical right turn away from the railroad tracks, not over them as he told me! Since we're about 55 feet long and don't bend in the middle easily, it was a bit hairy finding someplace to turn around and get rerouted. Well, another 3 miles or so he delivered us almost to the Costco door. He then turned his truck around, waved, smiled and drove off. Great fellow. We did our bit of shopping, mostly cheeses, then moved on back to the interstate. Noted all the kudzu growing in the middle elevations over trees and bushes. Understand that it's quite an invasive species in this region. It's supposed to be edible and used quite a bit in Japanese cooking. Too bad it's not better promoted as a free, nutritious green here. Or maybe it'd be better to "forbid" it to be picked so that folks might be tempted to defy and have at it. "Make it forbidden and they will come" sort of logic. Better yet, start a campaign to promote it as an "aphrodisiac" or a "natural male enhancement" like some of the TV ads regularly seen. Lots of thoughts while driving in an all day rain. Happy trails...

Asheville, NC...leaf colors are changing

2009-10-13T17:58:00.001-07:00

Here we are Saturday evening at the Solar Decathlon along the Mall.

Arrived in Asheville, NC this afternoon after spending night along and in shadow of I-81...a rather noisy experience, along the New River near Radner, VA. Good day for travel with overcast skies and moderate temps. Same today and a bit of disappointment as there were some pretty trees along the route, especially as we began to climb into the mountains of western North Carolina along I-26. We decided at last minute to change the route and travel another we never had been on. Glad we did. Arrived mid afternoon with enough time to cruise the town and a bit of the Blue Ridge Parkway which runs through and terminates near here. We had traveled the first part of this years ago in our VW bus en route to Mexico, but this time we're a little more time conscious and we've found that winding and weaving, narrow roads are fun in the VW bus, but in a 39+motorhome and towed it's a lot more work and white knuckles. We didn't have time this visit for more touristing. A big attraction for the area is the Biltmore Estate, mountain home of the Vanderbilts of the Gilded Age. Nancy came here years ago in her prior life in the Arabian show and training circuit and actually dined at the Biltmore with her employer who was friends of the owners. There's an annual 100 mile endurance trail ride with Arabian horses held in the fall and her then husband was a trainer for a famous Maryland Arabian farm. My interest is minimal now since it costs quite a bit to tour, and after Versailles and other European chateaus, I'm tired of gawking at rich people's houses and lifestyles. Not to say I'm not interested in the woodworking and the techniques and technology applied, but that's not usually the focus of these tours. I do wonder, though, what Bill Gates' house will be like to view in 100 years and to view the state of art technology as history.

We're leaving out in the morning southbound along I-26 and hope to make it into Georgia or beyond. Weather says 100% rain, so need to tighten up everything tonight. So...happy trails for now...

Live from Reston, VA

2009-10-11T18:11:00.000-07:00

This finds us enjoying fall in Northern Virginia. We arrived Friday in time to set up and head out to dinner with Nancy's cousin, Russell and his wife, Anne, in nearby historic Leesburg. Saturday took us to TOWN, DC that is, and the Newseum. This is a fascinating 6 story museum about the "news"and the role of all media, print, radio, TV, the internet, in American life and it's relevance with our maintaining our status as a functioning and vibrant democracy. The historical side was very interesting and also helped give perspective to today's polarity and extremes in viewpoints and level of discourse. We could have stayed longer but they kicked us out at 5pm. But there was still enough time to take in the Solar Decathlon a few blocks away on the Mall in front of the old Smithsonian. This has become an annual competition for home design, energy efficiency and renewable energy and low carbon footprint construction. (www.solardecathlon.org) We were able to see and photograph all 20 of the participating univerisities entries and come away in awe of the design, thinking and potential that many of these "homes" represented, and the enthusiasm of the students who were representing their schools and the future. Universities included major US landgrant institutions like Penn State and Cornell, as well as entries from Puerto Rico, Germany and Spain.

And on Sunday, Ms. Nancy needed a rest and day off. Tom, on the other hand, went on for a wonderful afternoon visit with an old Georgetown friend and his wife. We all enjoyed ourselves tasting some of Loudon County Virginia's wines at Sunset Hills Winery in the Waterford wine district. It seems that the area has grown from 5 small wineries to over 25 in just a couple of decades. The area is promoting itself as DC Wine Country and from the experience with just this one winery, the future looks very positive for the industry here. It also appears to be a good way to slow the breakup of the traditional farming lands and lifestyle which subdivisions and developments are doing here, over 45 miles west of Washingon.

Tomorrow we begin the travels south in earnest...We're due in Miami by Friday, 16 October. Time to get serious about driving and it looks like it will be pretty much interstates since we've dawdled too long in the north and must now make up the time. Happy trails and will write along as we can...
ps...I'll try to post some photos when I get setup and an image resizer for Windows VISTA on my new laptop. It's a pain shifting files and programs over from my trusted XP but technology marches on at twice the capacity for 1/2 the price. Problem is to upload regular 2mb pictures via satellite internet at dialup speeds takes forever unless they are resized. Downloads aren't too bad @ 350-700kbps with this technology...and it's portable and solar operated.

From along I-81 southbound

2009-10-08T19:57:00.000-07:00

Natural Gas drilling rig setup between Troy and Canton, PA...this is part of the energy future of the area as the Marcellus Shale formation is explored and exploited from NY to WV. This strike promises to be a boom for the area financially for many years to come. It also carries the seeds of concern and danger for the beauty and health of the area and its residents. On the higher side is the build out of up to 170+ wind turbines on top of Armenia. These will be seen dancing in the winds for miles around the Canton, Troy, Mansfield area and for years to come.

Greetings from Hagerstown & DC area...

After several farewell dinners, hugs and heavy hearts (stomachs and bodies, too. We both gained much of our hard lost pounds back this summer) we pulled out of Alparon Park on Monday morning bound for the warm and sunny south...eventually we hope. Here in Hagerstown, MD we've made our "home" at the local Elks Club and continue our "meet, greet and eat" circuit with more old friends and family (this time from Nancy's side of the aisle). I think we're about done in with all the gatherings and will try to do a bit of sightseeing in Washington then hit the highway to continue down towards Miami...more in a few days.

Climate control via ignition key

2009-09-30T20:49:00.000-07:00

Back in Troy after hectic trip to SoCal and visit with sister and infirm mother. Doubt that I accomplished much other than be a calming presence for a moment or two. Before I began to try to fix an unfixable situation. Doesn't look like mother is candidate for coratid artery surgery due to health and stroke danger at this time. She can't continue to live independently either, so it's time to pack up and move on to a more supportive environment. And that's where we're at; Searching for that special and "perfect" place...I from PA and sister from there. Looks like this will continue for a few weeks or longer. SO...
We're now looking at the last days of scramble to visit and be visited by friends and family. We're constantly amazed about the warmth and quality of friendships that we still have in the area after an absence of more than 17 years. It's gratifying to be where we have a history with friends over 30 years. Enjoyed meeting up with many at recent Heritage Festival here at Alparon Park. Ran into people from my much younger days growing up nearby Canton and classmates from the class of 1967. Interesting to see how so many of them had gotten so much older, and that I had somehow not changed much at all:)
But, it's soon time to follow the geese we've begun to hear overhead. Nightime temps in the cold and damp 40's and days without sun seem too numerous. Looking to warm up a bit by rousing our sleeping CAT and pointing it south towards a warmer place...Florida is on the distant horizon. But more later...

Change in scenery expected

2009-09-05T12:05:00.000-07:00

We found mold growing in our sun oven due to a preponderance of Pennsylvania precipitation this summer. This just after our article on getting started with solar cooking appeared in the Escapees RV Club magazine! The weather has finally turned blue sky beautiful here...at last but it appears that fall is not far off.

The energy economy of PA's northern tier saw the completion and erection of the first wind turbines on nearby Armenia mountain this month. One of the work crews here at our summer home in Alparon Park is the crane operators responsible for setting these 275' turbine towers and blades in place. Quite a technical skill and quite a new sight clearly visible on the mountain top just west of downtown Troy.

We enjoyed a great night of music with the Texas swing band, Asleep at the Wheel, last night in downtown Towanda at the Keystone Theater, formerly known as the Hale Opera House built in 1886. The arts have received a real boost from the efforts of the Bradford County Regional Arts Council which took on the project of restoring and refurbishing landmark theaters in Towanda, Sayre and Canton, PA. They also bring music, art, theater to the area schools in addition to public performances and first run movies. A great asset for this very rural area of the northeast.

Tomorrow I'm flying west to SoCal again to visit and assist my mother who's been having some serious health difficulties lately. My sister needs a hand while we begin to look for alternative living arrangements in addition to preparing for surgery in the shortrun. It's difficult to project the outcome, but it's what's necessary now. Happy trails and more later...

Still enjoying the northeast...

2009-08-22T13:20:00.000-07:00

Well folks, it's a summer that defies categorization, and doesn't lend well to blog entries, either. It's been a summer of old friends, rainy weather with occasional sunshine and mild blue skies.This is a new economy, an energy-booming area and all our RVing neighbors here are workers with either the pipeline, gas drilling and wind generator companies. Most have their families with them here on "pipeline alley" at Alparon Park, Troy, PA. They are a great bunch of hard working family men from West Virginia, Wisconsin, Mississippi and lots of other places. We've also enjoyed having the 134th annual Troy Fair in our backyard but our sleeptime suffered as a result. The tractor pulls were two late nights, the country music headliner another and the last two nights finished us off with the Demolition Derby! It was the biggest draw of the fair. What is it about us that we crave smashing up cars as a spectator sport?

We've been gone long enough to where we don't recognize or remember more than half of who we meet. And for the ones we remember (and they remember us), it's hard to say because they've all gotten so much older. Not us, of course, as we're still full of vim and potential. It's just that we may be a bit greyer and slower to respond. We've had potluck dinners like we remember with all food cooked from scratch and most fresh from the garden. We are long time gardeners and most of our close friends here are the same. It's always great to be invited to pick fresh from the garden. But it's not a great year for tomatos and potatos around these parts as the blight has wiped out most everyone's crops. Root crops, crucifers and corn seem to have benefited from the overbountiful rains. With the cooler temps many are still picking lettuce and now readying a fall planting early. I've managed a few local hikes, a kayak trip down a stretch of the Susquehanna River, played music with friends and even attended a bluegrass festival.

Unlike a movie of a similar title, this is the summer of "one wedding and three funerals". Not the ratio we prefer, but at our ages it's becoming more the norm. The wedding was a grand time of old and new friends, bluegrass music, delicious food and a beautiful young bride-friend and her handsome new husband. One passing was of a very dear friend and aunt, Marian, my dad's oldest sister, who was always a special person to me and one who will be very much missed by all who knew her. She was a woman who could always find contentment and the positive in life, even when times and events don't lend themselves easily to such a view. The other two funerals were of boyhood friends; all the more poignant. These are good attention-getters as we must remember to sing & dance more and enjoy the flowers along our way; our season's getting shorter every year.

And so tonight it's off to dinner with friends and if the weather holds, fireworks on the Susquehanna River. Happy trails and keep in touch...

In the hills of PA

2009-06-28T18:44:00.000-07:00

Well, we've made it back to where we began our nomadic lifestyle nearly 17 years ago. We've changed and so has the old home place. We're presently parked at Alparon Park, our local fairground in Troy, PA off US Rte 14 & US Rte 6. We're on what we call "pipeline alley" along with the 5the wheelers working in the newly discovered natural gas fields. This strike is considered one of the largest in the country and should bring prosperity and problems for years to come. The area won't be the same and that's the way change happens, I guess.

Had a good trip north along US I-95 to greater Washington area. A quick trip to TraderJoes, and a dinner with Nancy's cousin, a quick visit to her parents graves and on through along I-81, US 15 then US 14.

We're looking forward to a month or so in the area visiting our ever-dwindling family and making the rounds with old and new friends. There are a couple of weddings on the agenda, music and the annual Troy Fair, along with some visits to far away and exotic places like Ithica, NY and Moosewood to perhaps some camping and even kayaking. There's lots of water here and more comes almost every day! I'd forgotten about this area's summer rains, even though Ms. Nancy has reminded many, many times. Happy trails...

Achieving escape velocity

2009-06-20T19:20:00.000-07:00

Well, looks like we're on our way again after nearly 6 weeks in the Miami area we're northbound. Hard to leave the food and all those mangos behind, but it was time. Plan to be back in September anyway, so great opportunity to enjoy the rain and cold of NE Pennsylvania.

Made it as far as Cape Canaveral where we hoped for an opportunity to observe the rescheduled shuttle launch. We found a great RV park at Manatee Hammock County Park located just across the causeway from the Kennedy Space Center and only 8 miles or so from the launch pad. Great location and open view across the Indian River to where it was all happening...or at least scheduled to happen. The launch was scheduled for 5:35am, 17 June and we were ready. Early to bed, alarm set...then a phone call at midnight. Wrong number from Phoenix! Back to sleep, sort of. Finally, no sleep and back up at 3am to check countdown status via the internet. Oh no! Mission scrubbed as hydrogen leak again detected. Great Scott. Back to bed and sleep again. Well, not to say the whole trip was for naught, enjoyed the Space Center, tour, exhibits and museums. And another launch the next day of the Lunar Recon Vehicle so why not stay another day? And we did. Nice time to explore scenic downtown Titusville and environs as well as return to the Space Center. Clouds were building throughout the day and a nasty thunderstorm was building from the west...even some lightning and a bit of rain. Great! Well the short of the story is that the Atlas V rocket eventually did go, on the last launch window of the day. It wasquite an experience as we saw the ship lift off with large plume and flame, and about 30 or so seconds later came the roar and rumble. We've been told that the shuttle launch would have been many times more powerful. Wow! Now, there's the small matter of schedule and how to get there again.

As for now, we're well along the road north. Tonight near Richmond, VA and tomorrow on to the Washington, DC metro area on the VA side for visit and dinner with Nancy's cousin, a quick visit to TraderJoe's and on to PA for doctor's visit for Ms.Nancy. Her injured achilles tendon has not improved over the past 8 months and has become quite painful and debilitating. Time to deal with it and hopefully we'll be able to attend it well while visiting our old home area of Troy, PA. More later on ... Happy trails

And it's still raining

2009-06-06T19:33:00.000-07:00

Please don't get the idea that we're obsessed with the rain. We try not to be, but it appears our days revolve around a little sunshine in the early morning, then wondering how much and when rains will begin. Even now our little Prius is still at the Toyota dealership "drying out" and having seats and carpet removed after we were flooded out yesterday afternoon after 9" of rain fell in 2 hours out on Miami Beach! We were at Bill's apartment with car parked out on the street when it hit= the lightening and thunder, the winds and then the rain. We had just arrived when the storm hit with now reported over 100 lightening strikes in that short time. Sounded like bombs going off everyplace. Quite a freaky event...very intense.

BTW, the picture above is after the rains had stopped and the water had gone down. I had to go barefoot, pants rolled up to get my "rain sandals" and camera from the car. Actually, water level was above door bottom, and the not so water resistant doorseal.

Spent 3 hours at dealership today as all commercial water removal companies failed to return our calls. Must be they were busier with bigger deals than our little Prius. We're really concerned about mildews and molds since those are Nancy's known allergens, and no amount of my shamwow activity was getting at the water underneath the carpet liner. Dealership was pretty busy, but with regular weekenders getting general service work done. Interesting was the mix of technological activity in the waiting room ranging from books & big screen tv to IPhones, texting, IPods and even free wifi...but the free coffee wasn't that great!

Can't pick up car until Monday. Thankful that it looks like it will work out well inspite of the $$ and hassle...check out http://www.miamiherald.com/news/breaking-news/story/1084607.html if you want to see some of the other storm happenings about 4 blocks from our location. We're really begining to miss the desert southwest! happy trails, tom and nancy

Still raining in Miami...

2009-05-30T14:38:00.000-07:00

Rain...every day it rains from late morning until late afternoon. We'd somehow forgotten about this small fact of life in subtropical southeast. But given there has been such a drought here for so long, everyone, it appears, is grateful and even excited. Sure could use some of this water in SoCal and AZ, but looks pretty dry out that way. We're still doing well with just a little mold noted between the toes...it grows slowly on this dried-out hide:)

Have enjoyed some sightseeing at the MetroZoo and Seaquarium. Hope to get to a few museums and beaches this week along with helping set up Bill's new apartment. Tom managed to try out his aqualungs this week with a pool review of his scuba skills after over 10 years on terrafirma. Now to get out to a reef for a little diving.

Mangoes are still falling from the trees. We've even managed to freeze a few packages. Starting to O.D. on all that fruit, but such a wonderful treat it's been. We enjoyed fresh citrus in CA and AZ and now this...hope to enjoy some peaches as we move north through GA and on to PA for some sweet corn, blueberries and later apples. We do seem to travel with our stomachs driving the bus. Happy trail from along US 1 in south FL...tom and nancy

Live from Miami

2009-05-13T07:21:00.000-07:00

(Roadside phox and other signs we are in Florida; beautiful springtime roadshow across I-10 & FL)

Woke up this morning, looked out the window and realized that we're no longer in the southwest! A coconut palm out one window and playful squirrels in the live oak tree out the other. There's even a mango orchard next to the entrance here at the Thompson County Park in southwest Miami. Ajusting to the humidity and temps is the big challenge. Second is getting used to the kamikaze drivers around who apparently haven't learned benefit of turn signals or lane integrity! Yes, folks, I'm becoming that geezer I've been practicing to be for some time. Anyway, have already managed to find the Barnes & Noble cafe and partaked of our first lechon asado marinated roast pork), moros y cristianos(black beans and rice mixed) and fried bananas and the first of probably many Cuban restaurants. We begin our explorations today of the city and area after a nice bike ride in this very beautiful county-operated RV park adjacent to the Metro Zoo. Quite appropriate, really.
We're also experiencing intermittent issues with the satellite internet system and may not have regular access as long as the sun is shining and the humidity is high...we think everything has dried out to point that any moisture screws up the transmitter...too much time in the dry desert southwest. Happy trails for now...

Tampa area...

2009-05-07T18:31:00.000-07:00

Well, we continue to progress down towards our Miami destination but decided to take a day off from driving and stop in the Tampa area at a small RV park Lake Como. Our first day in more than a week of no motorhome driving. But, a large part of day was spent on the phone with Hughesnet Tech Support! Stopped long enough for the satellite internet modem, transmitter or something to malfunction. Fortunately we have wifi access in the park...so we're cyber connected still. Quite an admission of dependence on this new technology even in the simpler, mobile lifestyle. Anyway, not sure how long we'll be offline, but will keep you posted. Our reservation in Miami is for Sunday, so hopefully we'll be up and going then. Until then, happy trails...

Into the land of GREEN!

2009-05-03T06:12:00.000-07:00

We crossed the 100th meridian yesterday near Junction, TX, left the west of dry air and blue skies and entered the green lands of central Texas near San Antonio. We'd forgotten the many shades of green available in a watered landscape, like the shades of brown in the desert southwest. We noticed the relative humidity double from 17% to 35% as we made this transition, and now nearing Houston we're at 66% with overcast and drizzle. It's also how we now have all our clothes, linens etc. transformed into "laundry". Time to find an RV park and laundromat. We've enjoyed the many roadside parking overnight spots we've encountered along and near I-10 here in Texas. Today it's on through Houston to Louisiana. Happy trails...

West Texas

2009-05-01T19:37:00.000-07:00

Roadrunner atop mesa overlooking Las Cruces, NM
And on closer examination, its a statue made of trash and recycled junk

It was a great time and a wonderful overnight with friends Al, Deanna and Chuck in Tucson. Unfortunately it was shorter than we would have liked, but the road to Miami is long. Left with great expectations for the drive east, but distances, time changes and general over the road fatigue combined for a shorter day than planned and we pooped out at 5pm and only 250miles. Today we made over 350miles and even had a sense of humor and a good walk after. We're in an area referred to as the Permian Basin, a large seabed millions of years ago that is today covered with limestone and dotted with old oil wells in the lowlands and wind electric turbines on the higher mesas. Here on a parallel road to an overnight camping site, we cross the Pecos River. after so many years, we're no longer west of the Pecos! Sweet Dreams and on again tomorrow. Our hope is to get beyond Houston by Sunday night, and there's a lot of Texas to go, so...Happy trails for now.

2009-04-29T08:39:00.000-07:00

Well, we achieved escape velocity by 10am yesterday...after a last minute flutter when the satellite internet dish wouldn't stow properly and a pair of broken glasses when Tom tried to wedge into a compartment to turn off a valve to prevent the fresh water tank from overflowing. But today was the day and that was it. We had a long day crossing the desert, enjoying the "dancing" windmills in Banning Pass near Palm Springs and then rush hour in Phoenix. 360 miles down, only 2300 more to Miami. We're staying with friends Al and Donna in Chandler and tonight we're on to Tucson and visit with other friends. Weather is sunshine and temps in the 80's. Looking forward to some travelin'...happy trails

Here we go...

2009-04-27T22:17:00.000-07:00

Can't believe it's been two weeks. And in that time our plans have changed again. Looks like we're heading out in the morning bound for Miami, Florida to attend to family matters. Ah humidity and bugs...it's been such a long time! Ah, the warm Atlantic and Keys, ah fried bananas, black beans and lechon asado...it too has been a long time.

So, these past days we've been spent readying the RV for the trip...grease, some fluid changes, cleaning out and reordering the basement and making sure the worms are all buckled up for the trip!

Have really enjoyed the time here in the Corona area. Managed to help out with compost and garden project here in the park. Also managed some time in the organic garden nearby at Glen Ivy along with some volunteer work with Riverside Waste Management in their public composting program. Some great hikes and swims...not bad but where did the 2 weeks go?

Also had some time with my mom who's improving a lot since the second surgery for a broken femur. Her attitude and outlook both have improved. Hopefully she'll continue improving and will actually enjoy getting out more. Nancy's adjusting to das "boot". The stiff walking boot to try and heal a badly torn achilles tendon in her right foot. It's been nearly 8 months since the original injury and still shows little improvement. We're going to try a bit of immobility for awhile.

That's it from here...hasta la vista for now folks

From along the trail...

2009-04-14T08:43:00.000-07:00

Well, Interstate 10 that is...we left our "home" at Lynx Lake Monday after a wonderful stay, good weather, good visits with friends and still with that special sense the Prescott remains "a place of the heart" for us in our travels.

We dropped down the "hill" along Hwy 89 and by noon we found ourselves in Congress and 15 F warmer. Time to change clothes to tshirts, shorts and sandals...time to readjust to 80F. Spring was well on, too, as we enjoyed the mallow, brittle bush and lupines along the roadside and desert for pretty much the whole trip. We decided to make for Desert Center, CA as a good overnight spot. We shared the night with others too tired to continue on in an abandoned space in what's left of a town. Although there is a RV resort, recreational lake and golf course a few miles to the north but the gas station/garage, market and small snack shop are boarded up. The only operating business appeared to be the US Post Office and a small cafe. The town appears to survive, if you can call it that, on the railroad workers that may still live around and the state highway department garrisoned here. If you look on any map, you'll see why this place is called Desert Center...

Off to Palm Springs and on into SoCal later today. Need to get some new window screens. These 10+ years of desert sun have left ours brittle and bedraggled. Nancy has done her best to keep them stitched up, but there comes a point. Time to support the economic recovery a bit.
Happy trails

Prescott and the Central Highlands of Arizona

2009-04-08T21:29:00.000-07:00

We left Yuma along I-8 after finally finding a tire facility that had a compressor large enough to air-up our tires. These tires at 110psi require more of a compressor than is normally found at fueling stations, and the inside dually rear tires require more "personal contortions" than can be made at a truck stop. Anyway we dawdled a bit and made it to Gila Bend, rested fueled up and weighed in on the truck scale...always a moment of truth as it had been 2 years since our last encounter with a truck scale. We weren't disappointed much by the fact that we hadn't lost much weight and still tipped in at a little over 27,000 pounds, and still under our GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating).

(From Left, Donna Ellis, Ms. Nancy, and Lori Nash preping the evening meal)

Spent a few days with friends in Scottsdale, a couple of hours up the road from Gila Bend. Mike and Lori are former fulltimers and may be again someday. They've both just retired in the past several months so it's great to see them catching up on household projects and making plans. We also enjoyed visit with other friends Al and Donna, also former RVers. Dinners, restaurants, a birthday party, bookstores and thrift stores and wonderful bike rides along the famous Scottsdale GreenWay urban park system filled our time nicely. Weather was great as temps in high 70s. Enjoyed seeing the rebirth of farmers markets in the greater Phoenix area. It was great to see they're even growing food in some urban and suburban farmsteads, in addition to the over 50 golf courses and countless yards landscaped straight out of the midwest designs and irrigated with scarce Colorado River water.

We moved up to Lynx Lake, in the Bradshaw mountains about 8 miles from downtown Prescott and took up residence...one of our favorite spots. We camp hosted here back in 2001 for the summer season and have always enjoyed the mountain breezes through the Ponderosa Pines, Junipers and Oaks. There is a 60 acre lake about 1/2 mile from our camp site. It always reminded us of our home back at Big Pond, Pa tucked in amongst the White Pines and Oaks. We're operating here off our solar electric battery system. We'll stay through Easter when we'll begin heading back west to California. Meanwhile, we'll visit with friends at the Highlands Center and others in town. We'll do a visit to our optometrist and Tom will do his not so regular medical visits, blood work etc. And did we mention walks in the woods? A great place with trails everywhere. But we're taking it slowly as we've been at near sea level for months, and the change in conditioning required here at 5600 feet ASL can leave you gasping a bit. Also, as signs of the times, Tom came across this sign while on a trail nearby...
So until another day...we hope you're enjoying life and springtime wherever you be. Happy trails, tom and nancy

Olgivy Road, Yuma Area

2009-03-28T16:53:00.000-07:00

Well, we've moved along and find ourselves in a BLM (Bureau of Land Management) area about 10 miles west of Yuma off I-8...quite a change from Tecopa over 350miles to the north. Our trip took us south across the Mojave Preserve and through the historic railroad town of Amboy complete with its cinder cone crater and straddling US Rt 66, the Mother Road of America. We found a nice spot to spend the night along the road and enjoyed spring wildflowers the next morning on a walkabout of the area. Later we drove through town and spotted the "shoe tree" next but didn't find any explanations from some folks we met in Amboy. Probably somebody had an extra pair and decided to leave a legacy...and so did many others! One of those many surprises and curiousities we've found along the road these many years.

Later that day we passed through Blythe and took the back road south along CA 78 to Olgivy Road/CA 34. It was a narrow rolling road with no shoulders and a bicycle tour group heading north. Felt badly for them because the traffic was pretty heavy, with a lot of trucks and RVs. Sure they were looking forward to a quiet and scenic ride, but that certainly didn't appear to be the case Tuesday.

Here we've come to make our annual dental visit in Algodones, BC, Mexico a few miles to the east and south of here. We've been making our annual trek here since 1995 and have had the same dentist almost since then.Yuma is the winter lettuce and greens capital of the country with many growers and packers taking advantage of the milennia of flooding from the Colorado River. It's a large winter gathering destination point for Snowbirds and RVers from all over the US and Canada. It's also home of the Yuma Proving Grounds where the US Army has a large R&D facility and the MarineCorps has a very active airbase. For us it's been a great winter climate, lots of public (BLM) land and plenty to do, or not, and a close proximity to Mexico.

We're taking advantage of the same income disparity which draws so many Mexican nationals here for work. It's quite surprising and sobering to see the many greybeards and snowbirds treking across the border for the relatively "low cost" dentists, optometrists and prescription drug pharmacies. Dental costs are roughly a third or less for standard procedures in the US, and many of the dentists are trained in the US. Quite a national statement to realize so many visitors are retirees without insurance taking advantage of this disparity to buy name brand & generic prescription drugs as well as getting new dentures, implants and all types of dental care. We try to point this ironic disparity to fellow bordercrossers while waiting in line often for over 1 1/2 hours to walk back through the border. Few seem to appreciate this irony. Fewer still have an appreciation of the efforts taken by many Mexicans to make the difficult journey to cross the border without documents looking for a job. Lately we have begun seeing Mixtec Indian women selling chiclets trinkets and when possible begging on the street. They are always surprised when we talk with them and tell them we know of their village. They are always pleasantly surprised and even proud of their homeland in Oaxaca over 2500 miles to the south. They remain very secretive of their circumstances as they are trying to eke out a living on the margin...but it appears a better opportunity here than in the hills of Huahuapan de Leon, Oaxaca.

That's it for today. We'll soon be heading east towards Phoenix-Scottsdale to visit friends and continue our annual medical visits. Hope this finds you well and keep in touch...tom and nancy

Spring time departure

2009-03-23T21:30:00.000-07:00

It's official...spring and our departure from Tecopa. It has been windy with near white-out conditions on Sunday due to the akili dust and near 5omph gusts! We're also finally back traveling. Our first day out we went 120 miles to Amboy, CA and old Rt 66. It was tough leaving as we'd met some wonderful people, had a great work experience at the Hot Springs and enjoyed much of the natural history of the area.

Tom made another camping visit to Death Valley...this time to the west side of the valley into the Panamint mountains near Telescope Peak, the highest in Death Valley at over 11ooo feet. The car camping experience is still a bit rough, but improving. Only problem is to remember everything and not worry about the hard rear floor of the car. Just add more padding next time!Seems my back and hips don't enjoy the sleeping arrangements. There was lots of walking and photo shooting and the weather was great.

More recently Ms. Nancy enjoyed her trip to Las Vegas with a wonderful meal at an East Indian lunch buffet. Later it was a trip to her favorite, the Barnes & Noble for an afternoon of tea and magazines. Tom enjoyed this as much with his favorite coffee. Finally a stop for some fresh produce, groceries and Trader Joes and then the 80mile ride home and a soak in the hot baths before bed. Can't beat it as a trip to the big city, even if it is Las Vegas.

We're now heading on to Yuma, AZ area and the annual dental visit via the scenic route across the Mojave Preserve, 29 Palms area and then along the west side of the Colorado River down to Winterhaven, CA just west of Yuma.

March comes roaring in

2009-03-04T11:13:00.000-08:00

Tecopa continues to enjoy southerly winds bringing clouds and some warmth. Spring is definitely here and even some disparate wildflowers have been observed nearby.

Death Valley National Park is relatively close so we've made a few forays there to observe the bones of the planet and "long time"...the geology of periodic ocean, lakes, layering, uplifts and faults over millions and millions of years. It is a really humbling experience. Here's one of Ms. Nancy at Badwater, 232 feet below sea level and the lowest point in continental US.

Tom has been rediscovering car camping with a recent trek to Death Valley with Priscilla Prius, queen of the desert. He recently took off for Death Valley again and ended up driving all the way over the Panamint mountains on the west side of valley. Here the Panamint range is to the east near sunset at Panamint Springs.

The little Prius is proving to be quite a comfortable ride and a geat sleeping berth. More to follow as he's hoping to venture out again in a few weeks.

The time is running on our stay here and we're looking to leave around the 22nd of March for Arizona. Hope to make it to Las Vegas at least once more. Happy trails...

The redwing blackbirds are here!

2009-02-03T13:06:00.000-08:00

Spring sounds are everywhere, and temps are daily in the 70s+. Today its windy with scattered rainshowers. The redwing blackbirds and doves provide daytime sounds, and the peepers in the nearby "lakes" provide the night time chorus.

Took a trip recently to China Ranch, a date farm about 5 miles from our hot springs home. This is an oasis located along a tributary wash of the Amargosa River.

It was first settled by a Chinese immigrant near the turn of the last century. That immigrant "disappeared" mysteriously and a series of Anglo ranchers have been the owners ever since. Gypsum and talc were mined nearby for many years. But access to bountiful springwater nearby apparently sparked an interest in developing the oasis into a working date ranch. I've developed an apetite for this extremely sweet fruit. This is also a great place for hikes into the badlands (as seen behind the date palms in this picture) or along the Amargosa River and the old trainbed of the Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad. Tom especially looks forward to the "date shakes" after a good walk...sort of the prize for looking at all the scenery and actually getting exercise in the process. (BTW, the cloths seen in the picture at left are protecting the date fruit from the birds...they like the sweets, too!)

All else is well with us. We'll look to be here another 6 weeks so hopefully will have more to share. Nancy continues to enjoy the daily baths. Tom does too:)
Happy trails

It feels like spring, and it's just Tom's birthday

2009-01-14T21:54:00.001-08:00

Well it's now official that Tom has begun the last year of the 6th decade, and so far so good. (Not so for Penn State at the Rose Bowl, and that's too bad after a great season) The day was spent in subdued reflection with the high point a great brunch at the Crowbar Cafe in scenic nearby Shoshone, a wholly-owned private town. The evening was spent greeting patrons at the hot springs and later cleaning the pools.

This town was founded to service the Tonapah & Tidewater RR in 1909. There is the Charles Brown General Store (and gas station), the Amargosa River Conservancy office (a "river" runs through here and Tecopa ending in Badwater Lake at 232 below sea level in Death Valley), the Shoshone Museum (home of a composite mastadon skeleton), a post office, motel, land development office, clinic and a French restaurant. Not bad for the middle of the highway and halfway to Death Valley (from Baker, CA that is).

Nearby are some cave dwellings from earlier inhabitants and likely prospectors and railroad workers. These dwellings were carved into the mud hills on the outskirts of town.

The view here is along the well-maintained Hwy 127 between Tecopa and Shoshone. The Lake Tecopa Yacht Club does a wonderful job keeping the roadside free of litter. This whole region was lakebottom real estate millions of years ago and the mudhills and mineral rings around the area are testament to that time long ago.

Weather has been incredibly sunny and balmy with temps in the 70's and almost no wind. The smells are of spring. (It was in the 80's earlier in the week in SanBernardino with wildflowers blooming along some of the roadways!) All else is well here as we look forward to January 20, 2009 and the Inauguration. Be well and keep in touch...

Happy New Year 2009

2009-01-01T13:10:00.000-08:00

All's well in our world here at the hot springs! We had a busy 2 weeks with lots of bathers from LA and LasVegas, many from Korea, where public baths are a tradition, and lots of campers on the way to or from Death Valley. Definitely looking forward to a bit of quiet that should come in the new year.

Father Christmas, as he's known in these parts, made a guest appearance along with Father Time at the annual Community Center Christmas party. The Center is pretty much the "center" of life in Tecopa and this whole area. It's located inside the RV park owned by Inyo County and operated by California Land Management (who Tom works for). The party brought together children from nearly 25 miles away along with RVing "snowbirds" far away from their families and homes in Washington, Oregon and even Alberta. Everybody had a good time. There is a post office two miles away, a library open a couple of days a week and a "Bistro" opened on weekends and special occasions. It's also where we had our new year's eve meal. Something to be said for walking to the restaurant, then returning home and bed by 11pm...I guess new year isn't what it used to be.

After watching the weather for the rest of the country, I realized how
much I missed the snow, but not enough to drive far to see it or touch it. After all, here the ground is white, like snow, year around. However, it's not very tasty or wet. In fact it's pretty salty stuff...alkali in fact. It's in the water and dries and wicks up through the ground. This area was formally a rich mining area for gypsum, talc and borax, along with gold and silver.

And for the real snow, you have to drive a ways into the mountains. Here the view is to the east towards LasVegas 80 miles away. This was about as close as the snow got this year (so far) Today temperatures are in the high 50's. Should be a great day for the Rose Bowl and Penn State!

Happy trails in 2009!

A funny thing happened on our way to winter travels...

2008-12-23T18:55:00.000-08:00

We’re writing again from Tecopa CA where we’ve taken up residence for the winter. Not so much a change of plan as more a change in outlook. Normally, we’re quite positive about life and our prospects, and like many this year, we’ve had our spirits lifted by the election outcome. Yet we’re challenged by our perceptions of the economy. Nancy and I have debated at length our travel plans, various budget scenarios and family responsibilities. Perhaps like many, we decided that a cautious approach to spending was in order, along with serious reconsiderations for our travel plans and ways to reduce expenses/maintain income. We see it as trying to be realistic and not panicked by the very real drop in projected income. While stopped for an overnight drycamp and a soak at the Tecopa Hot Springs and armed with a resume, a smile and willingness to work I asked if they needed any help for the rest of the season. I was greeted with a “maybe, but you’ll need to check with the supervisor in the morning.” The long and short is here we are still after my first full week in the campground and hot springs operation business. Who knows where it might lead, but for the time being we’re both feeling relieved by reducing expenses because our site costs are included and it’s 40 miles to anywhere, increased income for a few months and daily hot springs soaks, a good area for bikes and hikes, and all of Death Valley to explore. Did we mention date shakes at the nearby China Ranch Date Farm?

We just spent the winter solstice and our 29^th anniversary in nearby LasVegas, a long way from where it all began at our little cabin in the woods at Big Pond, PA. We’re not gamblers but did enjoy some good meals of Ethiopian and Thai food. We also did some food shopping, watched stormy clouds on the snow-capped mountains surrounding the LasVegas valley, enjoyed(?) the famous (and hideously inefficient) casino lights and watched the many families with children from around the world descend on our hotel (Circus-Circus) and the many family-centered activities available there. There was still a lot of gambling and shopping going on, too! We also had a great visit with old friends, Kim and Rick Swords, who are in town visiting their daughter’s family for the holidays. But, it's nice to back home where it's quiet and the stars are brilliant jewels in the black desert sky.
Happy trails, and holidays, too!

Fall, 2008 Update

2008-12-09T11:15:00.000-08:00

Live from Tecopa, California…gateway to hot springs and the DeathValley NP

Thanksgiving is over and Christmas is upon us. I’ve often thought of a blog update and as many times done something else. Perhaps it should be fewer thoughts and more frequency. Just do it. Let’s see if 2009 is any better:) Not sure if anyone is still out there to read these updates anyway. No matter, if you’re there, we hope you’ll enjoy these musings.

Our European trip seems so long ago, but the other night we pulled out the CD and relived that trip again. With the economic and financial turmoil we’re all experiencing, it makes us doubly grateful that we went in spite of the expense. The money would have disappeared by now anyway, even if we’d stayed home! Same can be said for our purchase of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert, Prius. And with the many trips to visit a convalescing mother it was really a saver @ $4.50+gasoline. We remained in the Corona, CA area through the middle of November. And there was plenty to do there, too.

Tom worked on many energy efficiency and water wise type projects around the park at Glen Eden and still managed to enjoy the pool, spa and hiking. He also worked at a nearby organic garden at Glen Ivy Hot Springs and was paid in fresh fruit and vegetables all summer long! He was even able to work with his sister Mary’s husband, Bruce and help out with his garage door business. All the while Ms. Nancy participated daily in hydrotherapy, pool-time exercizing and improving from her back and sciatic difficulties. Yes, we’re all feeling the weight and wear of the years.

We also found time early in the spring to get to our annual dental and drug checkup in Algodones, BC, Mexico. We joined the rest of snowbirds flocking to the relatively inexpensive (but quality) dental care and prescription drugs over the border. The irony is never lost on us as we venture there to exploit the difference in standard of living, while thousands of Mexicans struggle to come here to do the same…work for a more decent wage. However, our passage across the border is a lot easier and safer than theirs. Ah justice, or is it Just Us?

We also managed a trip through the four corners area to visit daughter Cathy in Cortez, CO. She’s set up in a new restaurant and bar business with her father there and appears to be making a good go of it even in the off-season. It was also near Mesa Verde National Park where we spent a day touring a few of the many Anasazi ruins from the 7^th to 13^th centuries. These ruins were of the probable ancestors of the Pueblo peoples of modern New Mexico and the Hopi of Arizona.

And what a year for a presidential election! We both kept busy with GOTV(GetOutTheVote) in the Corona area and online, helped with canvassing and phone support. Needless to say, we were both rewarded with the result, the first in too many years!

Thanksgiving was great this year with continuation of the "trash can turkey" main course. The main event was hosted by Gerry and Sally, long time friends from Alberta with 7 other fulltimer RVers in attendance. They did the most work dressing the bird and preparing it for the "can". The sequence shows the 17 lb bird in preparation with its aluminum foil "coat", under the thoroughly clean and degalvanized can with charcoal atop and around and those late comers who arrive for the feast!

Back in the soutwest, still traveling but...

2008-02-24T15:19:00.000-08:00

Where has the time gone? We just returned from Europe and here it is 2 ½ months later and not a blog update. I should be ashamed! It’s not like we just stayed put after those 2 busy travel months. Today we’re in one of our favorite RV parks here in southern CA near a mother with a broken leg (and a baby sister with some health issues). We expected to spend time in the deserts of AZ again this winter, but plans change. “Wherever we go, there we are.” An old saying that aptly describes our travel and life philosophy. We’re very grateful for our lives and this lifestyle which allows us this flexibility to change direction and location so easily and conveniently.

(Home at Hole in Wall CG, Mojave National Preserve, Californina)

By way of a recap since returning from Amsterdam in November, we’ve enjoyed friends and travels through Phoenix, Prescott, Ft. Mohave/Bullhead City all in Arizona., the Mitchell Caverns and Hole in the Wall campground near Kelso, CA, southern CA and the Yucaipa/SanBernardino area for Christmas, and Quartzsite, AZ for our annual meetup with fellow baby boomer RVers and the big RV Tent show, flea markets and Rock and Mineral Shows, many thousands come through here in winter for the warmth, humanity and the good bargains, and most all in their RV’s.

We now are enjoying well-needed rains and enjoying the smell of fresh foliage and flowers as spring and the birdsongs return to southern California. Golden CA poppies are beginning to show on the medians and hillsides, while snow-capped peaks are clearly visible on the San Bernardino mountain tops. As we wonder about this change in plan and direction, we’re reminded of the importance of family in our lives and are so grateful to be able to be here for them. It’s also a pretty special place when looked at for shear beauty and opportunity, too.

We’re an hour from Newport Beach area and 1.5 hours from the ski country of Running Springs and Big Bear. Tom even has a big bruise on his backside from a cross-country skiing encounter with an icy hillside track! First time in 18 years on a pair of skis, and no broken bones, just black and blue this time. We’ve also changed vehicles and added a Toyota Prius to our on-the-road travel package letting go of our long-time Mazda pickup. It was a difficult decision but the truck was showing wear and the clutch was proving more difficult for Nancy’s (and Tom’s) back. This is our first automatic auto in nearly 30 years, and at an average of 50+mpg, a pleasure to drive both in comfort and cost:) It’s also our first time without a pickup truck:(

We're getting to learn about a new computer educational system with our XO laptop computer. This is a newly designed laptop from the “One Laptop per Child” program, an educational foundation dedicated to introducing educational opportunities via the internet, collaborative learning and lowcost technology into the developing world. These machines are still in development and were only released in December 2007. They are lowcost, <$200.00, rugged and durable with some great features, a child-sized keyboard and wireless networking capabilities. It’s a new system built on a Linux platform with all open-source software and operates differently from the more traditional MAC and PC-windows systems we’re familiar with and is a bit of a challenge for Tom. But, if a child is supposed to operate it, perhaps there is some hope for him yet J Well, that’s it for this installment. We’ll keep you up to date on the Roadshow as we move along and situations and locations change. Thanks for the feedback and encouragement along the way on this blogspot. Hope you enjoy it as much as we do. Be well and keep in touch…tom and nancy, solarnomads@aol.com

Total Lunar eclipse, 21 February 2008 near Corona, CA…the clouds opened for just a few minutes allowing me to take this photo. Next time visible in US 2010.

Back in the US...

2007-11-25T13:56:00.000-08:00

A regular scene in the Netherlands where bicycle lanes are separated from auto traffic.

Greetings from along the Colorado River, Ft. Mojave/BullheadCity, AZ

Well folks, its hard to believe we're back in the sunshine and dry warmth of the desert southwest. Methinks we've been in a bit of post travel fog now as we realize it's been nearly 3 weeks since flying into Phoenix on 6 November. That morning we'd walked to the central train station in Amsterdam amidst clouds, mist but hints of blue skies and sunshine. Tom had managed to fall head over heels walking backwards off a curb taking the last of pictures in "really neat light" of downtown Amsterdam. He managed to rip out the pants and bloodied up the knee pretty badly, but, we had to get to the airport. Actually it was a pretty easy trip of about 1/2 hour with our 4 bags stacked in front. We arrived at the airport, loaded our bags on one of the free luggage carts and found the airport first aid office. After a quick look, the nurse cleaned out the cut, placed a bandage on it and wished us a good fllight. That's it, no name, record or payment!

The flight was wonderfully uneventful and the scenery as we flew out over the Netherlands impressive: the variegated fields of crops and flowers right up to the edge of the towns and cities, as we climbed through the clouds. Upon arrival in Philadelphia 9 hours later we were greeted by the new American welcomers, shaved-headed police ordering us to stay in a single file as we deplaned through the jetway, making room for the drug dog and handler to "greet" the new arrivals. We were run through customs where we reunited with our checked luggage and passed before the customs agents who asked what we had to declare and decided whether or not to believe us or check our luggage. We must have looked suitably respectable, or not nervous and were waved on through, only to have to again remove shoes and items from pockets, take laptop out of case etc and go through airport screening all over. Not once was anybody able to say to the many international travelers from Europe, "Welcome" or anything of the sort. We saw an elderly Dutch couple with a mentally challenged daughter trying to negotiate the security screening again, and to understand why we were again going through this after having undergone security in Amsterdam and not been out of a secure area since. We looked at each other incredulously, we smiled and asked if they needed any help, and they returned the smile, thanked us and said they were ok. It was quite an embarassing spectacle, and largely poorly executed. We heard some Americans commenting that although it was uncomfortable but at "least we feel safe". We spoke with a woman from England who simply smiled and offered that "you Americans are still new at this and are doing it rather awkwardly, like adolescents". She went on to note that the Americans appeared afraid of everything, bordering on hysteria, while in Britain they had adjusted to life with threats of terrorism, and life just went on. Due diligence and care, yes, but the fear and anxiety she saw was way out of proportion. It certainly was a day of contrasts from each side of the Atlantic. We arrived in Phoenix a little later than scheduled but our wonderful friends, Al and Donna, were there to greet us and wisk us back to their house for much needed sleep. They had been to Europe years earlier so we stayed up a bit to share stories, but soon the most comfortable sleep in many weeks was ours.

The next afternoon we returned to our motorhome and little truck, parked in our friends, Mike and Lori's, side yard. It was wonderful to be "home" again. But before we could move back in we needed to clean and sweep 2 months of Scottsdale, desert dust off all surfaces. It was also a time to look at all the "stuff" we had brought back along with that which we found waiting for us, and we knew then, what would be our focus this winter season... lightening up the load again by getting rid of the stuff we just don't use or need. But, that will have to wait. We needed to restock our food pantry with first a stop at Trader Joe's in Scottsdale, and later that next week at New Frontiers Natural Foods in Prescott. Our bulk foods restored and the organics, wine and other staples loaded up it was time to head to Prescott AZ. We enjoyed the many visits with friends and checking in on a few of our favorite restaurants, but we had work to do...so here we are, in Ft. Mohave, along the Colorado River. Nancy is busy going through the files for her annual "paper purge", Tom is going through boxes in the "basement" and "attic", along with readying traditional Christmas-gift calendars, notecards etc. We'll be here another week before heading out across the Mojave Desert, with hopefully a few stops along the way, to Tom's sister Mary's, his mother's (to help her move to new apartment) and Christmas in the Redlands/Yucaipa area of southern California.

We'll continue to post to the blog from time to time updates on our life and travels. We always appreciate your feedback and updates from your life as well, so please don't be bashful. And, if you've had enough, you can just delete us. It's just that easy! Be well and keep in touch. Hope the Thanksgiving holiday was an enjoyable one...Happy trails from way out west...tom and nancy

The Netherlands and time to go...

2007-11-03T03:22:00.000-07:00

tom ready to ride Bike trails and lights

Wind turbines along roadside
Ms.Nancy does the internet at home.

Well folks, it's hard to believe that we're only a few kilometers away and a couple of days until we board US Airways for Phoenix. It certainly has been a wonderful gift to travel as we have. Our last major road days took us from along the Rhine in Bingen on to Koln (Cologne) Germany and then to here near the North Sea at Delft. Our itinerary was decided primarily because of availability of campgrounds, as most are closed this time of year. The weather is damp and much warmer than we'd expected, positively balmy in the high 50's with a bit of blue above the clouds/fog. Our current campground is in a nature park 200 yards from a major freeway at the edge of the city of Delft, near the Hague, and home of the painter Vermeer and the famous blue Delft ceramics. It is also only the second campground in our entire trip that has unlimited & free WiFi internet connection available in our camping spot! Nancy has been busy catching up on the news and like, while Tom took advantage of the bicycle rentals, the flat terrain and the incredibly extensive biking roadways in the area. He spent the day riding in the mist all over town, discovering solar PV installations, wind turbines, a nature center, the old central Markt Plaza with cafes and lots of souvenir shops with Delft pottery, windmills and wooden shoes. All around are canals, small cars, people biking and walking. In front of our campground, cows are grazing in lush green grass with no fencing within site of high rise apartments and the freeway...the land is reclaimed and surrounded by small canals so no fences are needed. One common theme throughout our European travels has been how close agriculture is to daily life here. Cities and towns are clearly defined, bordered by agricultural fields right up to the edge. Houses and lots are smaller here, apartments more plentiful, afterall, land is at a premium and populations large. There is an intense pride in the quality of the food and it's nearness to the consumers. Daily markets are common throughout Europe, not just the Netherlands or France. The custom of small, close together homes may date back to medieval Europe and the era of walled cities. But its implications for living, food production and consumer patterns (how much stuff can you stuff into a small living space...and no off site storage units) is profound.

Nancy says it's time to go...we're traveling to Amsterdam today to return the van and enjoy the last of our European adventure. A museum, a meal and a cafe or 2 await. Nancy says we need to return to the Red Light district as well, to see if her favorite zaftig brunette is still pulling in more customers than the slim blonde next door...(I suspect the interest may have something to do with zaftig vs. slim) Unsure whether we'll have an internet connection before departure so I'll send this along now. Hopefully our next communication will be from the Phoenix area, land of sunshine and warmth. It's goodby to the cool, damp and cloudy for awhile, but it's still amazing that we're at 52N latitude and it's this mild at this time of year. Maybe the Europeans have reason to worry if part of the changing global climate includes cessation or modification of the Gulf Stream. They appear to take renewable alternatives in energy, efficiency and carbon reduction more seriously here, perhaps because they are more likely to suffer adversely from the projected changes. All in all, it's been a wonderful opportunity to observe and learn, enjoy and wonder at the predominant cultural influence this place has and has had on the US, ourselves and the world.

Happy trails from the Netherlands...ciao for now, tom and nancy

Along the Rhine

2007-10-31T02:47:00.001-07:00

Our boat returns to pick us up at St. Goar

Just across river from Bingen

We're now in Bingen, Germany, along the Rhine River, after a long drive much of it on autobahn, most of it in traffic around Frankfurt am Main. Today, we spent a beautiful day on a riverboat along the Rhine River, up and back, along a really beautiful section of the Rhine, from Bingen (home of Hildegard von Bingen, a 12 century Abbess, saint, mystice &seer, healer and outspoken woman for her day) to St. Goar and the Rheinfels Castle. This whole section of the Rhine dotted with castles, some dating from well before `1000 AD, and little towns dating back to before the Roman times. Most began with the true "robber Barons" who found good spots along the very busy Middle Age trading route, built "customs houses" to collect "tolls" and the castles to ensure that tolls were paid. A large chain was used to persuade ships to stop and pay up, otherwise, the chain would rip the wooden boats apart in the strong river current. It appears to have been quite a profitable enterprise. Many of the castles were property of various Archbishops and other well-connected individuals and were often the sight of many a siege or assault. Vineyards have been here since the Romans came here before the Current Era. We were also lucky to have a break in the otherwise dreary, cold fall weather with partial sunshine for much of the trip. Beautiful fall colors of the deciduous trees along the river added to the specialness of the day. The day topped off with a wonderful meal on the boat, some local wine and a coffee with local brandy. Tom even managed to get in a visit to local museum for the last 1/2 hour which had an exhibit on the writings of Hildegard. Tomorrow we head toward Cologne, and then on to Amsterdam, arriving on Friday. We want to have a few last days in Amsterdam for sights missed in the earlier visit. We saved a few museums until this last week. It doesn't seem possible that this wonderful trip is almost over, but it will feel really good to get back to the motor home, our friends and family, our comfortable bed, and the recliners and the internet. We've about run ourselves into the ground.

Munich and a happy reunion!

2007-10-30T09:55:00.000-07:00

the Glockenspiel tower in the New Rathaus, or City Hall in Munich

The entry gate at Dachau Concentration Camp, "Work makes (you) free"

10-30-07 Update from along the Rhine in Bingen...Finally found an internet connection so will send this along...more to come on our last week's trip from here on to Amsterdam. BTW, spent day on a boat cruise along the Rhine leaf peepin' at fall color and castles. Incredible, too, that we saw first blue sky in over a week today.

Written: 10-28-07

We just left Munich, Germany, where it's still cold and drizzly, well, cold and damp at least, not too much drizzle today. It's beginning to feel a lot like winter, no snow here; but the raw damp is palpable, like it was in our Pennsylvania winters. Can't complain, though; we've had wonderful weather for most all of this trip, and we knew when we started back north toward Amsterdam the last week or two we might run into some bad weather. Like we gambled on a mild fall, and lost. Hasn't dampened our spirits, although it is taking its' toll on creaky joints and summer-oriented wardrobe.

Munich, of course, has had a long, colorful and prosperous history since it started as a monastery in the 12th century. It's the home of BMW and Siemens, the Octoberfest and so many other monuments, galleries and Royal Residences. More recently it's where Adolf Hitler and the Nazi Party really got their start and became powerful. The Munchen Stadtmuseum (City Museum) had a wonderful exhibits about the history of Munich with a special section devoted to how the National Socialists came to power. We tend to forget that Hitler and the Nazis were freely elected, which should be a lesson for all democracies. The exhibit did a wonderful job of showing how conditions after the first World War, plus the Depression caused severe economic conditions in Germany creating lots of uncertainity in the population. More interesting was how the Nazis used these events, along with zealous nationalism and patriotism to establish an atmosphere of fear and distrust among the general populaton. The would then exploit these fears and prejudices against any perceived enemy of the party and the Fatherland which included the Jews, Jehovah'sWitnesses, homosexuals, political liberals, oppostion newspapers and anyone who stood to challenge or even question them. They created these scapegoats, and set about to establish a government where 'law and order' and safety were of highest priority. Tolerance was perceived as weakness. It was noted that minor city clerks were soon promoted to high city and later national posts because of their loyal membership in the National Sociatist Party. Competence and qualifications for a position gave way to loyalty and party activity and was first demonstrated in Munich.

We had lunch at the Hofbrau, a Munich beer hall where Adolph Hitler made many of his impassioned speeches. Just realizing that you were in the same room looking at the same walls, walking on the same floor, where Hitler and the Nazis drummed up support for their ideas, was sobering. I think this has impressed us both on this trip, being places where historical figures and happenings were, some from so long ago, like the Pantheon and Colesseum in Rome, and some recent like this. Makes them into real people in your mind somehow, whether it's Galileo, Hitler, Michelangelo or Julius Caesar.
We spent another day touring Dachau concentration camp and the accompanying museum. Such a sobering reminder of man's capacity for evil. It didn't help that the day was glowering, grey and bone chilling cold. To see the place and to see all the photos and a documentary film about it, and to realize that it wasn't even the worst of the camps was a wringing emotional experience. But, somehow, it didn't seem right to come here without acknowledging it, and bearing witness to all that was done there.

We also did a bus tour around Munich, saw the City Hall (Rathaus) with its incredible clock with two sets of animated figures move about, one set of lifesize dolls that dances in comemoration of the end of the Plague in the 16th century, and the other a full joust on horseback to comemorate a wedding where one of the principals from Austria was hit by the lance. The glockenspiel is being repaired, so while the figures dance, there is no music at the moment to accompany them, alas. Interesting, historical, free but still very cold! It's not that it is so incredible in this modern world of Walt Disney animations, but when you realize they are hundreds of years old, and represent a master's clockmaking art, it's pretty neat.

We've certainly come away from this trip with an appreciation of really good mass transit systems, that's for sure. While we haven't had opportunity to travel on one of the 'fast trains', we have seen several of them, and the local trains we have taken have been convenient, clean and easy to use. I can only imagine how much more liveable our US cities would be with more. You never have to wait more than a few minutes for a train or bus, and you can get absolutely anywhere easily on them. We had been going to drive out to Dachau, when we realized that we could get public transportation right from the corner down from the campground to the door of the camp, easily and quickly, for a few Euros, so we took the train and enjoyed a nice ride through the suburbs and out into the countryside outside Munich.

Also while in Munich, on a whim and a hunch Tom was able to find and make contact with his German "sisters and mother" from the time he lived with the family when he was an exchange student in Bolivia some 40 years ago. It was the greatest moment to meet up again after contact had been lost over 10 years ago. We visited, talked and remembered life and friends in SantaCruz, Bolivia so long ago, and what our lives were today. It was the first of hopefully many visits.

And now the time is getting short as are the days. We haven't seen the sun in over a week and must start the trip north to Amsterdam. Today we drove to the walled city of Rothenburg On Der Tauber, near Wurzburg in northern Bavaria. This was where not much ever happened, so nobody stormed the city walls or destroyed much, to the benefit of tourists today. The Reformation did happen here, as it was started not to far to the west in the early 16th century. The central cathedral here is Evangelical Lutheran today and has been since 1527 even though the rest of the Bayern State (Bavaria and Munich) are predominantly Roman Catholic. The city was beautiful to walk through, first the gate, then the narrow streets to the Market Platz, City Hall and public fountains, and later passed many small shops with art work, clothes, foods and gifts all with the tourist in mind. However, the majority of tourists here are German out for a Sunday drive. The campgrounds are nearly empty and the temperatures are near freezing nightly. What are we doing here???
That's it for now, on to the Rhine and then the Nederlands.

Happy trails from along the road.

The Tyrolian Alps

2007-10-21T13:30:00.000-07:00

Nancy and new friend at Piazza San Marcos

Tom and Nancy enjoying favorite pastime, sidewalk cafe people research, cappucino and tea optional.

Sunday morning in the Dolomites

Sunday early afternoon along Italian alps

Sunday late afternoon at Brennen Pass

Sunday 10/21/07: Greetings from Innsbruck, Austria
Though they were cold but gorgeous blue skies this morning, we gambled and drove on north to Austria crossing the Brennen pass in light and blowing snow/rain. Arrived late afternoon after dawdling about in the Alps with occasional stops by streams and ruins for pictures and snacks. We tend to drive slowly, even in our regular on the road lifestyle, so for us a long day can be 200kilometers/140 miles. Have internet connection via the campground wifi network so will catch up on news and emails. More rain/snow tomorrow so will probably stay put before moving up to Munich. Guess I'll never wear those shirt sleeve shirts now:)

10/20/07: from Cortina D'Ampezzo, IT Writing this missive with a cup of hot chocolate while the north winds blow and the temperature drops below freezing...a very cold first for us in many years! We are in the Dolomites or the Italian Alps near the Austrian border at 1200 meters (and 46Nlatitude) near an upscale Italian ski resort, before the snow but after the summer fun. Not many of us here. On the map it looked like a shorter route from our last venue, Venice to Munchen (Munich) Germany. Very scenic, but...

What can we say about Venice except that we loved it even more than Rome and Florence.......this city, which has never known the automobile, was just so beautiful and alive that it's hard to find words to describe it. So many of the buildings have an arabesque influence with vaulted windows, latticework, etc from years as a Byzantine vassal state and as an active trading republic with the Levant and China. (remember Marco Polo?) Of course, the incredible network of canals and watching how the transport of goods and people and the daily business of a city was conducted without the use of busses, trucks or cars was really interesting. We toured the Doge's Palace (the titular head of the Venetian Republic) which, while it didn't rival Versailles, was really beautiful in its' own right. There was also an exhibit of ancient Islamic art there, and seeing the intricate metalwork, gold jewelry, hand illuminated Korans, paintings and rugs, some of which was thousands of years old, up until almost modern times made you realize how young our country really is. This trip has really makes you rethink ideas of what constitutes an 'antique', that's for sure.

We stayed in a campground across the lagoon from the city of Venice, at Punta Sabbioni on the Adriatic Sea. They have a great deal for tourists where you can buy a pass for the ferryboats for periods of 24 or 36 hours or more, and can then just ride all the ferryboats you want, as well as the canal water buses. And did we get our money's worth! We rode the ferry to the neighboring islands of Burano noted for Venetian lace and Murano noted for Venetian glassware and beads. We rode the canal boat through the Grand Canal which runs the length of the main city area of Venice. We watched folks being ferried around in gondolas, but at about $140 a pop realized that we could enjoy watching them every bit as much as riding in one ourselves, looking as silly as the people in them did to us. We spent the difference eating seafood in little sidewalk cafes along a canal watching the world go by.

You just don't realize how much noise and pollution cars and busses cause in a city until you find yourself in somewhere like Venice, where it's quiet, even with the bustle of people and commerce going on about you. It's also clear that global warming and sea level changes have made quite an impact on the folks here, too. All around is evidence of an incredible construction effort to build up a seawall for the lagoon in which the 118 islands which constitute the "city" of Venice occupy. There will also be a raisable seawall like in the Netherlands which can be deployed to protect the city from tidal surges during storms, which have become more of a problem in recent years. Venetian citizens are being asked to reduce their energy use by 30% to do their part as well. A very interesting project operating in the background of region that makes its living from nearly 20 million visitors a year!

At any rate, it was hard to drag ourselves away, but the clock is ticking, the road is long heading northward and we have a plane to catch in a few weeks. It was much more scenic coming this way north, through the Italian Alps, than it was coming through the Alps southward through Switzerland because not so much of the road is in tunnels (although there are still plenty). Although there are a lot of hairpin turns and steep drops, at least you can see some spectacular scenery. In Switzerland, it was almost all tunnels, with the road just emerging from one tunnel for a few hundred meters only to plunge into yet another. This was much more scenic, and more hair raising, too!

Some observations from our travels thus far: every country we have been in, The Netherlands, Belgium, France, Germany, Switzerland and Italy has had much more serious recycling programs than we usually find in the states. In the campgrounds, so much is separated for recycling (including all your organic waste, banana peels, veggie trimmings, etc, for compost), that hardly anything is left to be landfilled. There is much less excess packaging on things such as foodstuffs and household supplies in the stores as well, and you just don't seem to produce even a fraction of the trash that we do in the U.S. We first noticed this in the fact that the trashcans are really small, and then we realized that you recycle so much, there just isn't much left. Here in Italy, you can even take your glass wine bottles to a faucet in the grocery store and fill them with your choice of wines for everyday use, using the same containers over and over. In many stores you are charged for a grocery bag(s) to carry home you purchases if you don't bring one of your own. It makes SO much sense.

The food is really high quality with much less prepared and junk foods than we're used to, even in highway quickie-type markets. Europe allows no genetically modified foods, no growth hormones in dairy business, much of the agriculture is organic, and the small farmer and livestock raiser appears king rather than huge agribusiness corporations. Yet food does not seem to be a bit more expensive than at home, and often is even cheaper. Eating out in restaurants is expensive, but buying food in the market and stores and cooking your own is inexpensive, yet quality is amazing. People tend to buy food more often, in smaller amounts and the food must be fresh. The consumer probably won't stand for red rock tomatoes and tasteless peaches, and what is offered reflects that. It's just a pleasure to go into a market, a real feast for the eyes and as well for the palate. We've also noticed how present agriculture is in village and city life here. We were surprised to see crops growing within 10 kms of downtown Rome! All the cities and villages are abutted by fields of cereal crops or vegetables, and in dairy areas, cows are in pastures.

Another thing is litter. While we have seen quite a bit of litter in Italy, especially in the big cities, compared to the rest of Europe, even in Italy, the litter and graffiti is much less than we've observed in the States. In the Netherlands, Belgium, France, Germany and Switzerland, we seen none at all. Also, the almost complete absence of billboards on the highways makes a pleasant relief from the constant bombardment of advertising we get at home. There are signs, yes, and advertising, but it is much less obtrusive than here, and the highways are mostly blessedly free of signage other than the road signs.

It's hard not to form the opinion that, I hate to say it, but it just seems more civilized somehow. It's an older, more "mature" region in many ways. People seem to have more of a great sense of community responsibility and of taking responsibility personally for maintaining a clean and wholesome space, and yet a very open and tolerant attitude to differences. There is a huge diversity, with lots of new people from North and West Africa, the former Eastern European nations, India, etc. coming into the European Union; unfortunately, too, there is a growing nationalist backlash in some areas, just take a look at the outcome of todays vote in Switzerland.

And, of course, there are public transporation systems everywhere, even in Italy, which is a relatively poorer country compared with much of the rest of Western Europe. Practically anywhere, you can stand on the street corner and within a very few minutes, a bus, tram or train will appear to take you wherever you want to go. In Italy, the trains may be older but the system is still worlds better than most anywhere in the U.S. with the possible exception of New York, etc. (Although France has been having it's problems the last day or so with a transportation workers strike....SO glad that wasn't going on when we were in Paris).

That's it for this update. Let us know what you think and any suggestions of places or spaces always appreciated.
Happy trails from the tom and nancy roadshow.

Firenze, Italy (Florence)

2007-10-17T13:20:00.000-07:00

Greetings from along the Adriatic across the lagoon from Venice. Just arrived and settling in before we cross into the island city by passenger ferry in the morning. A big high point these last few days, hanging out with Galileo and Michelangelo, in Florence. We arrived here late this afternoon from Florence or Firenze as it's really named in Italy.

What can you say about the three days we spent in Florence other than that it was wonderful. We stayed at Camping Michelangelo up on a hill overlooking the city of Florence and the River Arno.....so beautiful. A campground among the olive trees just a short bus ride down the hill into downtown Florence. That is the neat thing about campgrounds here in Europe. They are right in or extremely close to all the cities, unlike in the U.S. where they would be miles and miles away. A bus or tram usually comes right by the entrance of the campground every fifteen minutes or so, ready to whisk you wherever you want to go in the city....SO civilized. Sometimes you can even walk from the campground right into whatever city you're located in. The campground in Paris was right along the Seine, for example, right in the city.

At any rate, was awed into silence by seeing both Galileo's house, and by paying homage at his tomb in Florence. To actually realize and feel the fact that these were real people, who lived, worked and walked around in these places, such as Galileo just humbles me, somehow. Tom went to the Museum of Science one morning and was able to see two of the telescopes actually used by Galileo, as well as his finger, carefully preserved (the one he used to polish the lenses of his telescopes, and which was cut from his body when he died, and saved). (Nancy's had to miss a few things such as that due to just pooping out, exhausted, while Tom still had some energy, so she didn't get to see that). His tomb is in the Basilica of Santa Croce (Holy Cross) in Florence, which is kind of funny in the extreme, him being entombed in a church, when at the time of his death, he was considered a heretic, excommunicated and not even allowed to be buried in any "holy" place. However,the story is that the Franciscan monks hid his body for a number of years,in defiance of the Pope and the Church in Rome, it is believed they kept it in the sacristy of this Franciscan church, Santa Croce, and some many decades later, built the tomb in the church where his remains now lie. Of course, it took the Church in Rome another five hundred years to admit that he was right and they were wrong. The earth really DID revolve around the sun!

He shares his place of burial with some other personages of note, and we paid homage to them as well, Michelangelo, Dante, Rossini and Machiavelli, among others. Just so amazing to realize that you're standing right next to the bones of these people.

We went to see Michelangelo's statue of David.......absolutely incredible.......the genius that could take a block of marble so huge (5 meters long) and end up with that work where David virtually lives and breathes was amazing. I sat there nearly a half hour just looking at him. How marble can convey such fluid grace, vulnerability and beauty and bring David literally alive before your eyes. So beautiful........Michelangelo did this work when he was young, also, which makes it even more amazing.

We have discovered Italian gelato, (ice cream), which has to be the most delectable ice cream in the world, sold everywhere, and which has spoiled us forever in the ice cream department. The ingredients were universally much the same: cream, milk, sugar, and whatever flavoring. Yesterday Nancy had coconut and I had pine nut and amaretto. These delicacies are not large servings, but are incredibly satisfying and oh so tasty.

Lots of tourists in Florence, just like in Rome, and we anticipate that Venice will be the same. Every tourist presently touring in the world must be in one of these few cities. They certainly weren't in any other of the cities we visited. Even in Paris, we were able to walk right into the Louvre, no lines, no waiting, but in Rome and Florence, tourists were running out of the woodwork. To get into the museum where Michelangelo's David was took an hour or more of waiting in line just to get in. Although taking photos was not allowed, and there were stentorian women guards louding proclaiming, NO PHOTOS, Tom managed to snap a couple and he was not alone as most people were sneaking photos themselves. They want you to buy the photos they have for sale, because it isn't that photos are going to damage a marble statue.

We of course visited several other churches and a cathedral of note, toured the town's tourist and historical sites, enjoyed (Tom) a stop into a hardware store and food market and enjoyed a capuccino (decaf, of course) and pizza at several of the many trattorias and ristorantes.

We are heading north after this, through the Alps and up into Germany. Not looking forward to the colder weather we'll find up there. This time in Italy in the warmth and sunshine has been wonderful. In three weeks or so, we'll be back in the desert southwest. For Nancy somehow, finding herself right next to Galileo was a real high spot and there's still more to go. Perhaps we'll get to meet Otzi in Bolzano, IT...remember he's the 5000 year old "iceman" found in the Alps a few years ago.........but all in all we have to say that we're looking forward to getting back to bore all of you with countless photos.....Happy trails and much love, tom and nancy

Ciao Roma!

2007-10-13T06:56:00.000-07:00

(l: Nancy at Trevi fountain, r: Nancy looking longingly through a store window at a "real bed"...remember the van bed and the torture bar!)

It's a beautiful Saturday morning here in Rome, and we are taking the morning off for daily life, washing hair, doing laundry, etc. After two hard days of sightseeing in Rome, we deserve it! Then, this afternoon, we'll take the computer with us on the train into town and try to find a place to send this. They have computers at the campground, but our computer won't connect with their wireless system, somehow. We've tried everything, even emails to HP from their computer, and stopping into a computer store yesterday to ask for advice. The computer says we are connected, it accepts the password, but the darned thing just won't work on the system. Very frustrating, because otherwise, we could just sit here in the rig and surf like in Freiburg, Germany.

We finally tore ourselves away from the Mediterranean in Levanto, and made our way across part of Tuscany, toward Rome, last Wednesday. It was our intent to stop and visit the walled city of Volterra and then to stay a night in Siena before getting to Rome, but the gods had other plans for us. When we got to Volterra, where you have to park outside the city walls, we could NOT find a single parking place, although we drove round and round and through every parking lot. Not tourists, but the cars of the local people who work in Volterra and drive in from outside the city, so there wasn't any movement in the parking lots. Every car in there was in there for the day.....so we finally gave up and headed toward Siena through the beautiful Tuscany countryside, stopping on the side of the road for a picnic at a spot overlooking small villages and vineyards, a beautiful day. However, when we got to Siena, the campground, which was listed in the book as being open until October 31 was closed up, padlocked and empty.

By now, the weather had changed, and it was starting to rain, that had been the only campground in Siena, so nothing to do but we slogged on toward Rome. It rained and it poured, the traffic got heavier and heavier and we found ourselves in rush hour traffic, excuse me, rush hour traffic JAM on the autoroute leading to the ring road, in the pouring down rain, then trying to find the campground from the directions in the book, despite the exit being closed due to construction, etc.etc.etc. It was a good thing that our comfort zones have been greatly expanded on this trip, because we needed everything we had to pilot our little craft into the calm waters of the Camping Tiber campground, here in Rome that night.

But, all's well that ends well, because the campground is beautiful, just outside central Rome off the ring road, right along the Tiber River, which I am gazing at through the windshield as I type this, with a free campground bus that runs every half hour to the train station, then a short fifteen minute train ride into the heart of Rome, which we have been exploring practically nonstop for two days now.

For all of this trip, we have wondered where all the tourists were. All through the Netherlands, Belgium, France, Germany and Switzerland, there haven't been that many tourists, (except at the Mediterranean), and only a tiny handful of Americans or British. Almost all the tourists we saw were Germans, French, Dutch, Italian, etc. Well.......now we know where all the Americans were. They were here in Rome! Rome is chock full of tour groups, each with a leader holding up an umbrella or a sign like a mama duck with ducklings, and many of them American, as well as practically every other nationality you could name. Can't even imagine how sightseeing in Rome might be during the height of the season in the summer, as even now, at the very tail end of the season, they are everywhere. Up until now, it has been very rare to hear English spoken on the street, or in trains and buses, etc. No more........they (us) are everywhere!!!!!

We did another of those city wide double decker bus tours like we did in Paris. It's neat because you can get on the bus and ride up on the top, out in the open, all around, listening to an audio tour of the various stuff you are passing, and at various stops, if you want to get off and explore, you can, and then just hop on another of the doubledecker buses of the company, which come by regularly, and go on to the next place.

We've been to the Piazza del Popolo, walked over more cobblestone streets than I can count, and have been overwhelmed with ancient architecture. It is so humbling, just as it has been in seeing some of the great cathedrals, to see the magnificant buildings created by people with no modern tools and equipment. We visited the Pantheon and marveled at the intricate marblework and soaring ceiling, created at about the time of Christ. Walking in buildings that you know such people as Caesar walked is just amazing. They are so beautiful. It's hard to think what we are creating in our modern world that will wear so well and last so long as thousands of years to be admired by those who come after. It was also interesting to note the passing of culture as in the Pantheon where it was originally populated by statues of Roman gods, with Jove at the central "altar" where the Christian altar now stands and all the saints and the Blessed Virgin in the other niches.

Just going by the Coliseum and the Forum, you had to pinch yourself that you were really here. Just thinking of the history that this city has seen and lived through, seeing paintings by Rafael and Michaelangelo and beautiful sculptures.....what a city.

Rome is just Rome, I guess. In comparison to the other cities we have traveled in through Europe, it's dirty, with lots of litter, lots of graffiti, and the first homeless people we've seen, complete with 'hobo jungles' along the train right of way and under bridges. But also, alive in a way different from the others as well.

Drivers here are a different breed with a devil may care attitude, yet with great skill. Collisions are avoided moment by moment by graceful maneuvers. Crosswalks become a duel between pedestrians and motorists. The pedestrians are supposed to have the right of way, but it becomes a game of chicken, with the most macho winning out. It's fun to see the hordes of tourists, clustering like frightened chickens at the edges of the crosswalks as the cars speed by, then to see an Italian nonchalantly launch himself into the crosswalk, as into facing certain death, only to have all the cars come obediently to a stop, however unwillingly, and in the case of mopeds and motorcycles, while gunning their motors menacingly. We've learned to pull off the Italian way, although with an eye out as well.

Yesterday, we were in a crosswalk, and a car came on through anyway, upon which an Italian promptly kicked the guy's fender violently, the car stopped, the driver got out, gesticulations abounded, we scampered on across the street and left them to it. Such fun.......You can spend absolutely HOURS just peoplewatching here. And we have spent a few hours at sidewalk cafes, watching the world go by, when footsore and weary, we just couldn't look at one more beautiful building or one more painting or sculpture.

And of course, the food is SO good. Pizza fifty different ways, spaghetti as many, gelato (ice cream) to die for. The only hope we have for not gaining weight on this trip is the tremendous physical exertion we are expending, walking five or six miles a day on hard pavements and cobblestones, up and down untold flights of steps,etc. Hopefully, they are balancing each other out.

We spent much of one day at the Vatican, touring the museum and seeing the Sistine Chapel, with Michaelangelo's famous frescos on the ceiling. We were overwelmed with the beauty.

We visited the Trevi Fountain, made famous in Fellini's La Dolce Vita, with Anita Ekberg's famous scene of bathing in it. I had visions of tossing in my coin....a la "Three Coins in the Fountain", but alas, it was so awash with tourists that you couldn't get near enough to the fountain to toss in a coin. In pictures, you always see it photographed at night, lighted, and of course, no people. Tom says they must have photographed it at 3 a.m. and even then they probably had to shoo tourists away to click the shutter.

Well, that's about all the news. Rome is our most southerly point, and from here, we start the long trek back to Amsterdam in November. We plan to go from here to Florence, then on to Venice, and into Austria and Germany. Having a wonderful time, of course. That goes without saying.

Happy Trails from tom and nancy

Levanto and the Cinque Terre, Italy

2007-10-08T13:40:00.000-07:00

All is fine here. Drove Friday the 3rd from the Swiss border to just north of the Cinque Terre, at Levanto, Italy, right on the Mediterranean. About 300 kilometers/180 miles. Too tired when we got here to sightsee. Road down here was pretty hairy. Lots of tunnels, but old toll roads, like some of the old California freeways before they knew more about how much distance was needed for access ramps, etc., and awfully curvy....tunnels after tunnels again today, some several miles long, but none like the Swiss one that was 17 kilometers long. Our hats are off to the engineers who managed to build these roads and tunnels through Switzerland, and here on the west coast of Italy. Absolutely amazing work, as the roads either cling to the sides of steep, steep mountains, or burrow right through them.
All in all a very tiring day, challenging road, lots of traffic, and a more aggressive type of driver....I'm glad our comfort zone has greatly enlarged. We had trouble at first navigating in Amsterdam, and now Amsterdam looks like a quiet easy to travel in place next to what we are dealing with now. And of course, Rome is yet to come, the ultimate drive:( We do have lots of experience with Mexican drivers in Mexico, who see medians as excellent shortcuts through and past traffic, and drive like they all have frustrated race car driver instincts, and these Italian ones seem little different. The moped riders swoop through traffic at great speeds. We watched one out on the toll road at about sixty miles per hour, threading his way through a jam of big trucks.....just amazing. Tom was incredibly glad to finally find and arrive at the campground safe and sound, however. He still has his edge, and can drive like an Italian (sort of, but a VW Campervan is no match for a moped or a fast Fiat sedan) when necessary, but it does take a lot out of him these days.
We are now in Levanto, east of Genoa along the Mediterranean in an area called the Cinque Terre (ching-kway ter-ri). There are five villages that cling to the cliffs over the Mediterranean, and a train links them, and the "auto strade" road above them. They are also linked by traditional and now much upgraded foot trails. Saturday we took the train to the southermost one, Riomaggiore and walked about 1.5 km west to Manarola, which is a flat and easy trail. We spent the day sightseeing, walking around observing and enjoying local life and enjoying stops on benches and at sidewalk cafes. The train pops out of a tunnel right at the station, then plunges back into the mountain until the next village. The whole area is terraced with hand laid stone terraces where the houses, the vineyards, gardens and olive groves cling to the mountain sides from the sea upward several thousand feet. The entire area is designated a national park and protected.
This area and much of the province Liguria was a source of early 19th and 20th century emmigration from Italy to the US when blights, fungus and insect attacks destroyed much of the vineyard culture. Today so much is as it always has been, and life goes on in the villages; anchovy fishing was also a traditional staple for several of the villages here in the Cinque Terre and today fishing for the tourists is a good complement.
Everywhere you look is another postcard view. Sunday was spent in much the same manner picking up in another village and walking on to the next and taking the train back to Levanto. Only Sunday, we had lots of company! Not only had some other tourists arrived, but the traditional Sunday "go for a ride" traffic from Genoa and other metro areas brought hundreds of additional walkers and diners. Here in Italy, Sunday meals with family are a real tradition and an all day affair. It was wonderful with lots of music, chatter and laughter in all the seaside village restaurants.
Monday we spent relaxing, catching up on some laundry and taking a nice afternoon swim in the Mediterranean. The water was a bit "refreshing" at probably 75F, and very salty. All around us the only language we heard was German, as they were the only other folks in the water. Many Italians were sunbathing on the beach, but only a few entered the water.
Earlier on the weekend Tom scored an International Herald Tribune and Nancy a Newsweek International Edition, so at breaktime we had a nice pot of tea and a cappucino and a dish of gelato accompanied the reading of the paper in a sidewalk cafes as we made the walks. It also helped a bit with the beginning twinges of those homesick feelings. We both find ourselves thinking of our little home with quite a nice feeling, and the comfortable bed and recliner. Our old 1981 VW Van had a comfortable bed, but this one was designed by torturers! We both wakeup with the creaks and groans from sleeping around the bar and gap in this 45 inch wide bed. Next time we check the bed first before agreeing to long term rental. But mileage wise, this VW van does pretty well with a 4 cylinder turbo diesel that averages about 30 mpg. And at average $6.30/gallon of diesel, that's very important.
That's it for now. Tomorrow we head off for Pisa and Siena before making the final approach to Rome.
Happy trails from Levanto... tom and nancy

Photo 1: View of old Levanto near campground, 13th century church and tower in view; photo 2: Laundry day in campground by our little house of wheels; tom and nancy with Manarola, Liguria, IT, in background.

Lugano, Switzerland

2007-10-04T13:09:00.000-07:00

Last time we wrote we had arrived in Freiburg, Germany. We stayed there several days, and took a day trip up into the Black Forest through some beautiful little villages. Forest, vineyards, apple orchards, and a wonderful outdoor living museum of Black Forest life for the past 400 years, the Swarzwalder Freilichtmuseum in Gutach. They took a traditional farm and then moved other authentic buildings from elsewhere in the Black Forest, and created a village and several farmsteads of authentic buildings with furnishings, etc. Kind of like our Williamsburg, Virginia, but of life from a period before Williamsburg to almost the present. Several of the houses had been lived in as late as the 1970s, complete with furnishings, etc. It was really interesting, and we spent the whole afternoon there. We also enjoyed a very beautiful, winding and twisting drive through the Black Forest, too. Reminded us much of NE PA, except the hilltops were higher and the valleys deeper, but just as forested and with fields and those special breeds of cows that have one set of legs longer than the other to walk on the hillsides:)
Rather than stay in Germany, we decided to start south toward Rome, to avoid a frantic last minute return to Amsterdam. This way we will begin returning north after Rome next week through Austria and Germany and hopefully enjoy some time in Munich and along the road of castles and the Rhine waterway.
So, we headed from Freiburg down into Switzerland, and drove through Switzerland to where we are now, Lugano, still in Switzerland, but right at the Italian border. Other than the fact that you are physically in Switzerland, and the official money is Swiss Francs, in actuality, you are in Italy and all signs are in Italian, the people speak Italian, etc. Switzerland wasn't willing to adopt the Euro due to requirements that they change their banking laws to confirm to the European Union banking regulations which would disadvantage their secretive bank accounts, so they still use the Swiss franc, although it is kind of like border Mexico in that prices are quoted in Swiss Francs, but every business and waiter has a little calculator and the latest exchange figures, so they all take Euros in payment. That was nice, so that we didn't have to change money into Swiss francs when we wouldn't be here long.
And when I say we drove 'through' Switzerland, we mean that literally.....in this country of mountains, lakes and TUNNELS. All day we drove in and out of tunnels, which when you look at the mountain in front of you, snow capped and almost straight up, you are very grateful for the Swiss engineers which did such a good job of tunneling under them instead. Don't even want to think of the hairpin turns and dizzying heights you must have had to negotiate the roads before the tunnels. The longest one was 17 kilometers/10.5 miles long! And there were literally dozens of them, although most only a few hundred meters long other than about half a dozen that were several kilometers to ten kilometers long. Plus snow sheds after snow sheds, which they call 'gallerias', which are effectively tunnels along the sides of the mountains, with tops, but with one open side to the downward side, protecting the road from avalanches and being closed by snow in the winters. When you look at the size of the woodpiles everywhere, you KNOW what kind of winter is coming in this part of the world.
While driving through Switzerland, we noticed a funny noise in our right back wheel. It kept getting louder, so today, we located a VW dealer and had it looked at and the disc brake was bad and some other stuff. After a call to the van rental people to get authorization to repair (we had to pay, a little over $500 for the repairs, but they will reimburse us when we get back to Amsterdam), all is fine now, and the little van is ready to go.
Talk about falling into a mud puddle and coming up with roses, however........the garage gave us a new VW Jetta to drive for the day while the van was being fixed and sent us off to sightsee in Lugano, free of charge. We got into Lugano and promptly got lost in a maze of one way streets, mad moped drivers, and Italian drivers that live by leaning on their horns at the first second of a light change if you don't move out smartly enough. We went round and round trying to find the center of town, and a place to park. Traffic was incredible and no parking places could be found. We ended up going down this one way street, and lo and behold, the gods led us to a dead end, at a PARKING GARAGE......we found a place up on the sixth level, figured out how to work the machine that we would pay to get our ticket validated to get out, found out that even the machine would take Euros......we were set! AND the parking garage turned out to be right at the center of town, just where we wanted to be. We walked along the lakeside (Lugano is on Lake Lugano, one of the seveeral in the Italian "Lake District" and all over the downtown, had our first authentic Italian pizza, and a wonderful time. Oh, and ice cream (gelato) and apple tart.... Then we went back to pick up the van in the late afternoon, getting lost several more times in the process of getting back to the garage, in rush hour yet, not to be believed......can't wait for Rome, as Lugano reminded us of Mexico City, with drivers who have a very loose idea of the traffic regulations, and moped drivers hellbent on destruction as they weave in and out of traffic.......but we made it back just fine, and our little home on wheels is feeling much better and his brakes no longer make that ominous noise when applied. All is well.
Some vignettes from Camping La Piodella, here in Lugano..... something funny happened to Nancy this morning. You know, the campgrounds are almost totally Europeans, no Americans and few Brits or Australians, so you get used to nobody speaking in English, and much of the time you have to muddle through with broken phrases and charades to communicate. France was the worst, but still, people speaking English are few and far between. Anyway, this morning she was on my way into the bathroom when she encountered a handsome young man about twenty-five years old walking into the women's bathroom. She must have looked at him with a question on my face, or he was unsure of whether or not he was in the right place, because the following 'conversation' took place.....
Nancy: questioning look
Him: Here?
Nancy: No.
Him: Where?
Nancy: Otro lado (somehow you know that a foreign language is expected, and your brain only knows Spanish, so Spanish comes out.
Him: questioning look....blank look....obviously didn't understand Spanish
Nancy: large sweeping motion....charades.....showing that the men's room was on the other side of the building.
Him: o.k., thanks
We go on our separate ways....she go in the bathroom and then it hits her..... HE WAS SPEAKING IN ENGLISH!!!! She laughed so hard, anyone else in the bathroom must have thought she was nuts. It is just so unusual to have anyone speak English to you that your brain just didn't register it and went into its' usual pattern of using a few words and charades to communicate. It was so funny.
There are a lot of kids in this campground. It's right on the lake, and apparently this week is traditionally the autumn vacation period for German families, so the campground is crowded with German families, and lots and lots of little kids. Watching them has been so much fun. The van is kind of like a duck blind in that you can sit in it relatively unobserved and watch them. This morning, Tom was sitting drinking his tea and watching this little girl, about five years old, who was riding a little scooter up and down the road outside (kids are definitely allowed to do stuff that U.S. parents would shudder at, riding bikes at age five, unsupervised, climbing to the top of the jungle gym when they're about two or three....just like kids did in the old days before 'parent paranoia' took over in the U.S., and we've only seen one kid with a broken arm, and only one overweight kid so far in Europe, and she was only a little bit pudgy, so they must be doing something right).....at any rate, she had her mouth open, and was chewing gum and her chewing gum fell out. She stopped, very gravely looked around to make sure nobody was watching, leaned down and picked it up off the road, licked it carefully and then popped it back into her mouth! It was so funny. It was tempting to let her know that she was observed, but it seemed heartless, so we didn't....just had fun thinking about it.
As you can see, we find enjoyment in some strange We do note that these last few days, we've had a few lingering thoughts about our little home on wheels back in the States....our comfortable Queen sized bed (this one is 45 inches wide and has a 'torture' bar that you have to position your hips above or below in order to sleep), and our comfortable recliner chairs.......a tiny touch of homesickness for home comforts.....but it passes in a few minutes and we go on to further adventures. That's when we think of the cafes and afternoon tea and coffee stops, the many magical sites and of course, the food
We head from here down the western coast of Italy to the villages of the Cinque Terre, perched on the hillsides overlooking the Mediterranean, then on to Rome, magical Rome.
Happy trails from tom and nancy

The Rhine Valley and Freiburg DE

2007-10-01T20:21:00.000-07:00

It seems like a long way from Versailles and my rant on American attitudes towards the French, especially as we find ourselves in the southwest corner of Germany on the edge of the Schwarzwald, Black Forest and near the Rhine. We spent a wonderful few days of cold and rain driving southeast through the red wine district of Burgundy where we stayed a couple of days in Beaune, FR very near Dijon (and the mustards). There we enjoyed a small museum of Wine. BTW, they've been growing grapes and producing wines here since the 5th century and the Romans! Then we drove east northeast through Jara Province and on into the Haut Rhin district into the white wine areas of the Rhine Valley. There we stayed a few days in the medieval town of Colmar and on Sunday toured the old town and many miles if vineyards and small villages around the city in glorious sunshine. Again, if you haven't noticed, we are travelers who without any other hobbies or vices do enjoy our touristing with a few museums, old country places and downtown plazas, outdoor cafes and good, locally grown foods. That we've found in all of our European journey to date.
Now we are here in Freiburg, Baden Wurzemburg state and the eco-capital of Germany, or so one person noted it. We crossed the border and almost instantly began seeing signs of a solar world different than we'd seen to date. Solar electric modules on some rooftops, solar hotwater panels on many others and even sign for "biodiesel", the first we've seen in all Europe. All this in space of about 40km! Today Tom spent day running around the city looking for some of the many solar rooftops and projects, and getting royally lost several times. Again, a stop at a cafe, a coffee or glass of wine and review of maps and phrasebooks, and off again. You'd almost think that he gets lost on purpose! He did find several of the many noted in the city's own guide to solar projects and sites around town. They take a top down approach from the local government dating back years to a loud, local rejection of a proposed nuclear power station in the area. The local farmers, vitners and students at the University wanted to explore an alternative. Today nearly 15% of local power is generated by renewable means. A lot of emphasis, too, has been placed on energy efficiency, retro construction on many of the older structures and passive solar designs for new construction. Tom's pedometer at the end of the day logged over 13000 steps, or over 6 miles walking.
Nancy enjoyed the day with Tom out of house, with our second WiFi campground connection and a good book. We're both beginning to feel some travel fatigue, some more than others. As well, Nancy's back has begun to be a problem and cause concern. This may have us reconsidering the many long drives ahead of us if we want to make it to Rome, and then back again to Amsterdam. (FLASH: We were unable to post this last night due to wifi connection/bandwith load here at campground, but at 5am, we're up and running WiFi very fast AND we've had a course correction: Auf Wierdesehn Deutchland, ciao Roma!) Now back to sleep...today the Black Forest, tomorrow southbound to Switzerland and on to Rome.
Happy trails from tom and nancy
(BTW, the photo is of us in the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles...finally figured out how to add the photos:)

Paris on to Versailles

2007-09-26T13:38:00.000-07:00

Sitting in the clubhouse of a busy campground on a cold and rainy night here in Versailles France, but they have WiFi here, our first campground with it!
Paris was wonderful. We saw and did more than we thought any two people could do in two days....of course, starting early in the morning and going nonstop until late evening helped! Why 2 days? Looking at calendar AND how long it's taken us to just get to Paris...we've got a lot of travel ahead and the weather is getting colder and damper. We've had to keep saying...this is our first visit, an overview visit to Europe, and hopefully not the last.
We spent the better part of a day at the Louvre. Yep, we saw the Mona Lisa, up close and personal, as well as some incredible Vermeers, Rubens, and thousands of other wonderful paintings, sculptures and the most amazing collection of Islamic art from about 4,000 B.C. onwards. (Nancy finally folded at the Louvre, and let Tom wheel her around in a wheelchair as the back, legs and feet just couldn't stand the strain). And the size of the Louvre is so immense, with literally miles of corridors, that it was just impossible to do it otherwise. It made a great difference, as she was actually able to enjoy the exhibits without being in such pain that she could hardly enjoy them. But it felt like she was really giving in, which was very hard on her.
But other than that, we walked our legs off, and took one of those open double decker bus tours that have four different routes all over the city. You can get on and off at any stop you like to explore something, then just catch the next bus and go on. We saw the Place de Concorde (site of where Marie Antoinette and many others were made a foot shorter, from the top), the Champs d'Elysees, the Arc de Triompe, (please excuse if some is spelled wrong, I don't have the guidebook with correct spellings with me), the Left Bank, site of the Bastille, innumerable little shops and markets, wonderful street scenes and people watching, and some of the most memorable food we've ever eaten.
It was not only the most memorable food we've ever eaten. It was the most expensive to date. Poor Tom.......the first night in Paris, we had the only dinner in our lifetime that topped $100....by quite a little bit. But every mouthful wonderful. I had creme caramel for dessert that literally brought tears to my eyes, it was so good.
And the second day, an escalloped salmon with pureed fall vegetables, and chocolate mousse, layers of white chocolate mousse and brown chocolate mousse with whipped cream and little shavings of chocolate on top, and the best bread in the world.......thank God we're walking miles every day or I know we would come back even heavier than when we left. We're trying at least to hold our own......
We rode the Paris Metro all over the city. What a great system. You'd never need to have a car at all. You can go anywhere, at any hour of the day or night in this city that never sleeps.
We stayed at a campground right inside Paris, along the Seine. You just hopped on the bus right at the entrance of the campground, rode a few miles to the Metro, and then were whisked into central Paris in a jiffy, no muss, no fuss. McDonalds and free WiFi (or WeeFee in French) was just a quick mile walk across the bridge.
Of course, you could spend a year in Paris and never see everything you wanted to see, but we gave it our best shot in the couple days we had, and had a wonderful time. It's sad to say goodbye to the city. BTW, we found the Parisians to be courteous, friendly and very helpful. Somehow, I expect one sees what one expects to see whenever traveling, contrary to all the negative stereotypes. In fact, with regard the French, it just might be that the American dislike for the French may be nothing more than that we see ourselves, a nationalistic, proud, at times arrogant, and self-centerd people reflected too much in the French. Something like what happens when you find yourself particularly put off by someone; often when you look a bit deeper, you see elements of yourself reflected. Just a thought.
Today we came to Versailles, and toured the Chateau and the many acres of formal gardens. Really beautiful, but when you looked at all that wretched excess, you didn't wonder one bit why the ordinary people rebelled and made the Revolution. The excesses and complete detachment of the aristocracy from daily peasant life evidenced in the luxury here were enough to turn anyone (?) into a revolutionary. I wonder what kind of mansions our heirs will tour in a hundred years or so? Funny, too, I asked many of the guides if they knew of any museums about the history of the Revolution, what brought it on, about the Paris Commune and great social upheavals of the 19th century, and no one could point out any. BTW, we were NOT alone today, with tour buses and school groups and thousands on a normal off season midweek day. Somehow, the excesses and actions of the rich and famous hold a perennial fascination for us humans. Paris Hilton, et al?
We're just about touristed out for the moment, so came in early tonight to the campground and are doing laundry, emails, and just heating up soup in the camper for dinner. It's really nice with the little stove and refrigerator, because in between the fabulous restaurant meals, we can have ham and cheese sandwiches and vegetable soup (tonight's offering), and get back to normal.
We were going to the Loire Valley for a day or so, but it turned cold and rainy this evening, and the weather report doesn't look good for the next few days, not to mention that time is slipping by and we have a lot more ground to cover, and Germany and Italy are waiting, so we're just going to skip the Loire Valley this time and head east toward Germany. The weather is supposed to be awful for a couple of days, so we might as well be driving rather than touristing. We've spent quite a bit of time wandering around in the French countryside in Normandy, and Versailles was plenty to fill up my desire to look at big, expensive castles for the moment, one of the big draws of the Loire, so we'll just be moving along, and will save the Loire for the next time through, si Dios quiere.
Everything else is fine here. We were blessed with great weather for our two days in Paris, mostly sunny, with a few scattered light showers, so are fine if the weather is bad for the next few days as we'll be pretty much just traveling. When we started planning this trip, two months seemed like SUCH a long time, but now that we are here, it's easy to see that you could be here six months or a year and that still wouldn't be enough time. Sights, sounds and experiences coming at you with a fire hose, and trying to just sip a few is difficult. Tom would have us sleeping only a few hours per night and ramming all the rest of the time if he could, but I just poop out on him. He's like the Energizer Bunny, but patient with his lady who tires so much faster than he does...but he does sleep VERY quickly and soundly.
That's about all the news in the travelogue....all is well in our little world. The van is cozy and dry despite the cold rain outside, so will turn in early and be ready to move along tomorrow morning. Did complete laundry tonite for first time in trip...15Euro/$19 for 2 loads! Expensive even here, but...The dollar's slide in value has other significant consequences for us EuroTravelers!
Happy trails.

Paris, along the Seine

2007-09-23T09:30:00.000-07:00

When we last wrote, we were in Bayeux, France, getting ready to do the D-Day beaches. What a powerful experience. We went to the visitor's center at Omaha Beach, the main American invasion site, and the American cemetery there, nearly 10,000 graves of the young men who died on Omaha Beach during the invasion and in the weeks that followed as they battled the Germans to Paris. So peaceful now. At the visitors center and museum, they had actual film footage of the invasion, and lots of profiles of many who had died there, and videos of remembrances of survivors. It was incredibly moving, as it made so many of those young Marines, soldiers and sailors into individual people for you. We hiked down to the beach (I picked up a small shell to save for you). We ended up spending much of the day there.
Then the next day, we drove the back roads through the countryside where the Allied Forces fought the Germans from 6 June 1944 to 25 July 1944, village to village. 18,000 civilians were killed, and untold thousands of military. Those little villages look today just as they looked then, old stone and brick houses, hundreds and hundreds of years old, and we stopped at several German machine gun emplacements still there, along the roadside, and other spots of interest and historical note. Just as with Omaha Beach, it is so peaceful and beautiful now, it is hard to picture it torn apart by war, although the film clips were there in the museum to prove it.
We came on to Chartres, just outside Paris Friday, the 21st. What a beautiful place. There is a famous cathedral here, one of the major ones in France, built about 1200 a.d., and famous for its' elaborate stained glass windows, which were pretty spectacular. Not only did we get to tour it, but it happened that there was a wedding there today, so we witnessed Cecile and Cedric begin their married life. At first we thought their names were Giselle and Jean, which seems much more romantic, but when the priest pronounced them man and wife, it was clearly Cecile and Cedric, alas. We had dinner at a North African restaurant, lots of those around, as well as Lebanese, and from anywhere the French had a presence in the past as French speaking immigrants from those areas abound. Last night was the last of the Fest de Luminaires, a city-wide light show using the historic cathedral and other buildings of Chartres as backdrop for incredible lights and sound with an historic focus. Also noted the continental style of late evening dinners and promenades,(9-10pm).
We haven't encountered many Americans (US) on this trip at all, well, except for the other morning in a McDonalds in Bayeux while we took advantage of free WiFi and an egg mcmuffin. Not sure if it's the $US dollar problem, if it's France or if it's our travel style. As for " Micky D's" it seems they are the only reliable sites for WiFi. The few cyber cafes we've found are ok, but there is no wireless access, and it's back to "hunt and peck" typing because of a different keyboard configuration. We've also encountered our first "Continental" toilets on this leg of the trip, a hole in the floor, two footprints to place your feet and if you're lucky, a hand bar to hang on to. Good for the lower colon!
Arrived in Paris this afternoon on our first journey without actually getting lost! Straight in and around the "ring" to the campground. Will eat, rest up and venture out to "McDonah" to see if WiFi is alive here, too. They put us in campsites adjoining a lot of Irish Rugby fans and with the championships this week in Paris, we hope to get some good sleep(haha) along with some good stories from the new neighbors.
Happy trails from along the Seine River, tom and nancy

From Brussels to Bayeux, Normandy

2007-09-20T02:14:00.000-07:00

Let's see....when we wrote last, we were just leaving for Belgium. We had a great day with an old friend from college, who is now the Deputy Secretary to NATO for the U.S. He travels a lot, but we were able to connect with him by being in Brussels on Sunday when he was off, so he spent the day showing us around Brussels. He took us out to a wonderful restaurant for lunch, big leather armchairs and very elegant surroundings. Nancy had a rack of lamb, and Tom had some Belgian specialty of chicken, waterzoi de polei(?). It was lucious, let me tell you. Then we went to the main plaza and the cathedral and we walked around all the shops and street performers, and we had the famous Belgian waffles they sell on the street (I got mine dripping with chocolate), then he drove us all over sightseeing.
We left the next day toward France, and spent much of the day getting royally lost. In southern Belgium, there were almost no signs, and although we had a map, none of the roads seemed to bear any resemblance to what the map showed, so we spent much of the day going round and round the roundabouts, and playing charades with the locals trying to figure out where we were since no one spoke English. But.....in the process, it started raining, and we were hungry, so we stopped in this little bistro and had a most memorable meal (won't have many of them as the bill was $60, but almost worth it. Mostly we are buying food in the market and cooking ourselves). Tom had a filet with a berenaise sauce with melted gorgonzola cheese and I had a skewer of huge shrimp and vegetables. The shrimp were the biggest I had ever seen, and were whole, with their heads on, and their little eyes on stalks, looking at me. Since no one in the restaurant spoke English and we couldn't understand the menu, we were reduced to looking at what people around us were eating. They were helpful in pointing out on the menu what was on their plate, so all turned out well. French fries here are so wonderful, they bear little resemblance to those at home, and these were super as well. Tom had French fries (pommes frite), and I had little tiny new potatoes, with garlic sauce, to die for.
When we crossed the border into France, road signs appeared, and also looked like what the map showed, which was a big relief. We spent the night in a camping municipal in a tiny village (that's what they call campgrounds in France, and every town and village seems to have one), and were on our way early the next morning to Rouen, where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake, and where there is a famous cathedral, built in, I think 1066.
We drove on back roads to Rouen, through these incredible little villages, with old brick and stone houses, some nearly a thousand years old. Such beautiful country, and virtually everywhere you look it's a photo opportunity. It nearly drove Tom crazy. But the roads were narrow with no shoulders so there are few photos from this part of the journey. It's the harvest season and the farmers were harvesting potatoes, and was so picturesque, it was like a movie set.
We went to the spot where Joan of Arc met her end, and toured the cathedral which was already nearly 400 years old when she was killed in 1431. The cathedral, which was built before 1100 a.d. was incredible. The younger brother of Richard the Lion Hearted is buried there among others, and to look at the soaring stonework hundreds of feet high, and intricately carved, and realize that all that was done when they had no power equipment, no cranes, etc., just seems an impossible job, but it is beautiful in the extreme.
Today, we went on to Bayeux (all this is in northwest France, in Normandy). The big draw here is the Bayeux tapestry, detailing the invasion of England by William the Conqueror of Normandy. It was embroidered shortly after 1066, and is 70 meters long, telling the story of the invasion of England by the Normans in 1066 and the triumph of William. Just so amazing that it is nearly a thousand years old, yet the natural dyes of the woolen thread that makes up the embroidery is still bright and beautiful. It was really neat. Kind of the world's first comic strip, so to speak, although on linen with beautifully embroidered woolen thread rather than ink and paper, but was intended to tell the story of William's triumph to an illiterate population.
Tomorrow we are going out to tour the beaches of the D-Day invasion, Utah and Omaha beaches, and the museums about them. On the way down through northern France on our way to Rouen, we passed through the Somme battlefields of WW I, and several pleasant, quiet cemeteries of the war dead from that war. You could still see the trenches along the roadside where the battle of the Somme was fought, and every mile or so there was another little cemetery where the dead were buried. We stopped at the British one and took some pictures. Even today, the French maintain those little cemeteries lovingly, and they are beautiful and peaceful and full of flowers.
We just wasn't prepared for just how beautiful the French countryside is, and everytime I think things can't get more beautiful, or the food can't taste any better, we're surprised to find that it can.
All is well. We are getting settled into our little living quarters and have a good system going now. Nancy's back is holding up well, but not the same for the knees and hips; arthritis and injury show their stuff from time to time. It is humid, and damp, most days are at least partly cloudy and we have had some showers which might be contributing. She's not willing to admit anything about age.
We have to say that the food is amazing. In the countryside, the cows are standing in lucious green grass, there are green fields with free range chickens, and it is no wonder that the eggs, butter, cheese and meat is so much better than in the U.S. Not much agribusiness food here, just little shops and bakeries and wonderful, wonderful food. The fruits and vegetables are incredible as well. Lots and lots of organic food, although even the regular stuff seems to be grown more or less organically. If you haven't noticed by now, we do enjoy eating. Seems like every time we get lost, it's time to stop, eat and think it over!
Although France is certainly expensive, more than the Netherlands, the municipal campgrounds are very reasonable, and as long as you stay out of restaurants, the food in the markets is quite reasonable. Today we brought home a baguette, and a roasted chicken and stuff for salad, and although it was much better tasting than what we would have gotten at home, price was comparable. Eating out in restaurants is ruinous, but really worth it occasionally because the food is so incredibly good. (Although that $60 lunch almost had Nancy having to give Tom artificial respiration for a minute there......I'm glad he didn't have to see what the bill added up to at the place where his friend Bob took us in Brussels).
Happy trails the solarnomads...tom and nancy

Enkhuizen, NL

2007-09-15T00:32:00.000-07:00

We finally managed to break free of Amsterdam. What an incredible city! We stayed five days, doing museums and canal trips, the Red Light district, cafes and lots of other stuff. We spent a whole afternoon at the Anne Frank house. We both read The Diary of Anne Frank when young, and it was both powerful and sad to walk in the tiny rooms where the four in her family plus four others hid from the Nazis until they were betrayed and sent to concentration camps where they all died except her father. To stand in her little room and see the pictures she had cut out and pasted on the walls from movie magazines, and to see pages of her actual diary, was just incredible. And so sad that she died in Bergen-Belsen just one month before the camp was liberated.
Took a little detour before heading to Brussels to come up here about twenty miles north of Amsterdam, to Enkhuizer, on the ZuiderZee (now the IJsselmeer). There is an outdoor museum, much like Williamsburg or somewhere similar in the states, of a genuine Dutch fishing village, authentic and just as if the occupants had walked away yesterday from their life fishing for herring. Like at Williamsburg, they had people dressed in period costume, mending nets, cooking food, hanging out clothes, etc., just as the villagers did then. People lived in those little houses until the thirties, just as they had lived since about 1600. I had a whole smoked herring....it was SO good. Also a museum of fishing boats which was really interesting as well.
We're leaving for Brussels Saturday morning, the 15th, to connect up with an old college friend. Then we head out toward Paris......gay Paree...or whatever and greater France, the Loire Valley and more.
We're looking at the map, realizing that we have covered only a spot on the map as big as the end of my little finger in a whole week, so recognize that we are going to have to move on at a more brisk pace. There is just so much to see. Tom has been enjoying seeing the wind turbines everywhere, and both of us have been enjoying the wonderful butter, eggs and cheese. After driving out of Amsterdam and seeing the cows, sheep and other animals knee deep in wonderful green grass, no wonder the stuff tastes so good.
We'd love to come back to the Netherlands to stay for a period of time, although not in the middle of the winter, as it's cool and damp now and it's only midSeptember! It looks like home comforts, insulation and energy efficiency in modern Dutch homes and apartments has come a long way from those little houses we saw today in the ZuiderZee Museum village; it sure must have been cold here when when the winter storms came in off the ocean.....brrrrr.....
Well, no more news. We are fine. Enjoying ourselves immensely, and getting used to living in a VW van again. It took a few days, but now we have developed systems for doing stuff and not bumping into each other every minute. The bed in this van is sure not as comfortable as the one in our old one though....but after a day of sightseeing, we could probably bed down on the floor and not notice it.
Happy trails

Still Amsterdam

2007-09-11T11:31:00.000-07:00

Hard to know where to begin, but we did survive our first fast drives through traffic, construction zones and that completely "where are we now?!" feeling. Found the campground but dodging electric trams, cars from roundabouts and anywhere's else and bicycles everywhere was a real challenge, especially on little sleep. Better now, though.

We've enjoyed great food, sites along the old city canals and cobbled and bricked streets. Haven't found it easy to access WiFi as we hoped, so the pictures and more detailed descriptions will have to wait. We've managed visits to a few museums, the infamous "red light" district, along with it's many coffeehouses.

Looking to leave in a few days heading north to a "living history" village where we'll look into the more traditional Dutch life from several hundred years ago.

More later...happy trails from Zeeburg Campground, Amsterdam, NL
tom and nancy

Amsterdam

2007-09-06T08:53:00.000-07:00

Amsterdam

It’s 36 hours and counting since leaving Phoenix and we’re still going, but not so strong now. Arrived here with the sunrise, after a long and wonderfully none-eventful flight. But we were none to bright for the all nighter & no sleep. Clouds and light rain here, and so much green we observed fields and greenhouses on the approach in from the north. Little issue with immigration and customs folks, collected luggage and stepped aboard the metro train for the15 minute ride to the central rail station downtown. How civilized.

First had to get over the shock that everyone here looked like everyone else we know or see daily in the US except they were talking Netherlander or Dutch. Then we noticed that there were bicycles EVERYWHERE and established lanes separate from car and pedestrians, although there appeared a lot of “overlap” in the small crowded downtown. Bicycles were parked all over and the bikes were, well, just ordinary 1 speed or maybe 3 speed utilitarian bikes. Not fancy and not always well maintained but they were being used! Saw lots of cars with the bikes and vans, but no SUV’s.

Debated the wisdom of a short nap, but decided better to push on to complete exhaustion, then early to bed and hopefully an all night in dreamland, thankful to have crossed the ocean safely and looking forward to tomorrow and picking up our new “home” for the next 2 months.

Can barely see straight so good night

It's about time...

2007-09-04T19:48:00.000-07:00

Almost ready now. Bags packed, food stowed and friends updated on our motorhome systems etc. as we're leaving house and pickup with friends in Scottsdale, AZ. Arranged to put cell phone on suspension and same with the internet service. This must mean we're really going to leave. We're both wired ( and I'm a little wine-ed) for a wakeup call of 4:30am for a 9am MST flight from Phoenix to Philadelphia. It's only 101F outside and the A/C is going full tilt on 30amp service. We're about to pull plug on the refrigerator and the bread, snacks, cheese etc. are packed. What else? Sleep, if we're lucky. (That's why the wine, $2Buck Chuck Shiraz) Early to bed because it's a long day to Amsterdam. Arrival 08:05 GMT Thursday, 6 September. Pleasant dreams and good night. tom and nancy

Counting down the hours

2007-08-31T18:13:00.001-07:00

Time is moving quickly and we're still packing, unpacking, repacking and it looks like a lot of stuff for only 2 months, and we could probably buy it there but why pay a 40%premium if we (Tom) can carry it as luggage! Trying to get computer setup and all the wires and gadgets ready and not forget whatever that one critical charger, wire or adapter needed to make all these electronics function that are integrated into our "simple"l ifestyle.

Received word yesterday that there is a firm mortgage committment for the family property in PA and that final closing is scheduled for 6 September. What a relief after so much effort and worry. Really excited that a young couple with kid(s) will be making the house a new home. In fact, Sarah is expecting a child due on closing day the 6th. Needless to say they are excited and anxious to get settled ASAP.

Nancy had her last shot in the knees on Wednesday. SHe's feeling well and as ready as can be. We're both anxious in general, but the long flight over will definitely be a concern for her back and knees and mine, too. Enjoyed a visit with friends on Wednesday night along with 112F temps in the Phoenix area. They've set another record with over 30 days consecutive with temps above 100F!

That's it for now...hope to get another update before we leave Tuesday. We're now cleaning out the pantry, cleaning up the house and preparing to leave it for 2 months. Never done this before...Happy trails and keep in touch, tom and nancy

Two weeks to take off...

2007-08-22T20:04:00.000-07:00

Just returned from NE Pennsylvania and a whirlwind visit to prepare our jointly-owned family homestead for sale. It was just 2 weeks from announcement that the house and 4+acres had a buyer and I was able to return. And yet, in just that time the subprime housing market collapse ripples had spread fast with now uncertain effects on the "sure-thing" sale we initially had. The house needed a good cleanup anyway, and enjoyed time with my cousin Bob and brief visits with old friends. It's a little shaky now but we're making ready again for Europe anyway. Nancy made good use of the time and started "practice packing" the suitcases. She also spent time sewing and modifying bed linens and other items for the trip. That's it for now...happy trails from back in Prescott.

A small detour on the way to Europe

2007-08-15T17:16:00.000-07:00

Slowly our European travel plans are coming together and an itinerary is taking form. In the meantime, Tom is heading to NE Pennsylvania for a brief and difficult task of cleaning out the family homestead for sale. It's only a few weeks to departure time...are we ready, yet? We're enjoying the monsoon season in Prescott, AZ, although it's taking some getting used to the clouds and occasional rains...better we get used to it before Europe, though. Happy trails!